Monday, December 16, 2013

Animal Print Wrap Top: Vogue 3879

This is a wearable muslim for Vogue 3879. It is very wearable... I love it. 

Since this was a super stretchy knit and just a casual top, I didn't do the facings, I just bound the edge with a wide piece of self-fabric. I stretched the binding a bit as I sewed to tighten in the edge. So far it works, no gaping.

It is the middle of winter, so a bolero top makes this wearable. I actually prefer all of my tops sleeveless right now... I'm STILL nursing my toddler, and those hormones are keeping me warm!

Thursday, December 5, 2013

Mod Zag Wrap Dress: Vogue 8379

It seems like the DVF wrap dress calls to every woman at some point in her life...!

Wish I could have found a copy of the original DVF for Vogue pattern, but I got the closest thing I could find: Vogue 8379. I used a gorgeous rayon zig-zaggy print knit from Emma One Sock. It is one of the nicest knits I've ever worked with, just deliciously soft and totally opaque. I wish every knit could be so well behaved! I was just barely able to eeek out a version of the dress with my 2 yards. One change I made was to taking a lot of the fullness in the skirt that I didn't want anyway- 20 inches out of the sweep of the skirt! And I shortened it considerably.

OH, and I also made the dress sleeveless. Not only does it save on fabric, but it also allows me to stretch my wardrobe out to all 4 seasons, and adjust to the wide variation of temperature variations in my environment (freezing office, overly warm classrooms, etc.) In order to make it sleeveless with a clean line, I drafted an armhole facing (this was the first time doing that and it was easy!). 

Sleeveless dress with a long-sleeve bolero made from rayon jersey.

To fit the pattern to my body, I cut an 18 waist and skirt and a 16 bust and shoulders, and still took out another inch around the bust (curved it in under the armhole). For reference, I'm  12 in RTW in both tops and bottoms. I also reshaped the front armhole... it had a very extreme curve, which I tamed down a bit. To fit the pattern onto my 2 yards I cut the belt in two parts-- not ideal but it doesn't look too bad.

With a simple wrap made from a lofty wool/mohair knit from Mood.

I interfaced the facings with lightweight tricot from Emma One Sock-- this is the nicest interfacing I have ever worked with. (UPDATE: tricot from Fashion Sewing Supply is also fantastic!) I also put some strips of interfacing in the shoulder seams to control stretch. I hemmed with interfacing... first time I've done that, and it is really a beautiful method. I tacked the facings down with fusible hem tape (I feel like this was cheating, but I tried hand sewing and everything shows on this fabric, and I can't stand spending all day tugging at facings).

Before making this dress I made a wearable muslin (will post pics later) where I skipped the facings and bound the neckline and armholes. This was okay-- a more casual look, I love it too! For this dress I tried the facings and love the clean, crisp look. This is also sort of a trial run before I make it in silk jersey, and my previous attempt at making another dress in silk jersey was sort of sad-- by the third wearing it has completely stretched out. It was also a b---- to sew, it kept wiggling out from under my needle. I think some very lightweight interfacing would help both problems.

An added benefit-- nursing compatible and adjustable for a changing body, for all those moms out there! I've been wanting this dress for soooo long, don't know why I waited so long! I plan to make it again in silk jersey! It would also be luscious in wool jersey, fully lined, with a thick belt.