Cow Skull Kalle- Closet Case Files Kalle with Long Sleeve Expansion

Black shirts are the basis of my fall wardrobe, so when Heather announced sleeves for the Kalle Shirt, I couldn't sew one up fast enough. 

This one is made in black tencel from Threadbare Fabrics. I'm okay telling you that it is AWESOME fabric because I've already purchased some more for my stash. It is thick, smooth and silky and presses like a dream, sort of like a high quality matte silk charmeuse without the price tag. The tencel I've bought has varied widely in its qualities-- this one is by far the nicest I've seen.

I've already sewed the Kalle several times, you can read more about it here and here. To make this Kalle, I used my shortened tunic pattern in size 12.

I didn't muslin the sleeves, but I did baste on the sleeve and cuff to check fit. It fit perfectly. The sleeves might be just a tad on the long side, but I decided I liked them that way. So I removed my basting and sewed the sleeves in properly. The armhole and sideseam are finished with a faux flat fell, as suggested by the pattern.

In typical Closet Case style, the sleeves are an understated but cool design-- they have a super wide cuff with traditional tower plackets. I decided to put a double button on the cuff so that I could turn it halfway up.

I used some more of my favorite smokey mother-of-pearl buttons. With the double cuff and extra-long length of the Kalle, I used one whole shirt set and the leftovers from another set.

I sewed the inside yoke with a piece of silk from a roll end from Emmaonesock. I totally didn't realize this fabric described as a "rorscharch pattern" had bull's skulls on it, but when I noticed this I knew it would be the perfect secret detail for this shirt.

The jeans in these pictures are, of course, my black Closet Case Ginger Jeans.

I guess I should also say that purchasing the expansion pack makes this the most expensive pattern I've ever bought- $14 for the original pattern, and $7 for the expansion, no discounts. But this is now the 4th Kalle I've made, and I'll probably make more, so that is in its favor. Since the Kalle was the first shirt pattern I ever sewed, the sew-along was like a sewing course filled with super-useful tips for fuss-free shirt making, so that also is in its favor. Finally, this pattern fit my body without a single change (I didn't even make a muslin for the first Kalle)... and that's pretty invaluable. Of course, this last item won't be true for everyone, but this pattern does seem to work for a wide variety of body types.

I know it is such a stereotype for artists to dress in black... but I just can't help myself. Lately my self-chosen uniform has been black collared shirts with black jeans. Occasionally I wear a white shirt. Somehow I don't find it boring at all, and getting dressed has never been easier. This Kalle is a fun addition to my very small (but growing) shirt wardrobe-- just a little bit different, but still very classic and understated. 

Black and White Kalle Shirt/Dress-- Summer of Basics, Kalle by Closet Case Files

Basic black and white. 

This is, of course, the Kalle Shirt Dress by Closet Case Files. I'm just a bit obsessed with it.

Also, it happens to fit a huge gap in my wardrobe... I don't own any basic button down shirts. To be completely truthful, there might be a few oddball items that sort of fit the bill in my closet... I still have the white tuxedo shirt that was my uniform when I had a catering job a LOOOONG time ago. Maybe I can think about letting go of that one now that I have a white shirt to replace it.

I did in fact buy a bunch of button down shirts back when I started my job in 2008. But NONE of them fit very well and I was constantly checking to make sure I was decent. I always had to tape or pin that point right at the bust, because there was NEVER a button in the right place. Those shirts are long gone. You can bet that when I made these shirts, I made sure there was a button in that special place!

The white Kalle is cut at the tunic length, and shortened just a bit more. I wanted it to be just long enough to tuck if I was in the mood, but the fact is, I'll probably wear it untucked.

It is made out of twill tencel from Emmaonesock, with real shell buttons purchased from a seller on Etsy. I also made a double pocket, and made the pocket just a tad larger (about a 1/4 inch all the way around). This might have been inspired by Helen's white shirt, which I love!

The black shirt dress is made out of bamboo twill, also from Emmaonesock. This fabric is just luciously drapey! I hope that it turns out to be durable-- I've been disappointed with the durability of the rayon items in my closet. I always wash gentle cycle and air dry, but many rayon items (especially knits) end up pilling in areas of high wear, or sometimes they just stretch out and look saggy. I guess only time will tell.

I did the inner yoke in a scrap of black and white silk, and the buttons are real gray shell. The pictures don't do the buttons justice, they have that colorful, luminous quality of real shells. I also love that the set I bought came with smaller ones for the collar... it is one of those small details which you notice when you have made something yourself!

I made the dress 2 inches longer than my previous Kalle dress. Since I'm 5'4" and I usually shorten Closet Case patterns by 2 inches, that means I made the pattern exactly as printed. It makes it just long enough that I feel good about wearing it without leggings to work.

I also love it belted! Which has alerted me to the fact that I own no decent belts... I was surprised this black one even fit. Don't look too closely, it is one of those plastic-y belts that came with something I bought a long time ago.

And, of course, it has pockets. I still have a love-hate relationship with inseam pockets, but I'd rather have a pocket than none at all.

I am in love with both of these items. I wore the black shirt dress for the first day of classes, belted, and felt very artsy and chic. I'm really happy to add these basics to my closet, they go with everything and I think they will be in constant use during the rest of summer and beginning of fall. 

I've had to wash the white tencel twill one already... the blue chalk that I used showed up terribly! It still isn't completely gone, but it seems to be fading. I did my usual gentle cycle wash and hang dry, and it came out all wrinkly. It did iron up beautifully... but I'm not used to having to iron things. My linen Kalle looks quite acceptable after hang drying. Is that just a tencel thing? Any tips?