tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-68704797180056680052024-03-17T05:18:53.929-04:00UNLIKELYdalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.comBlogger282125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-20522331810146818142022-03-13T14:29:00.002-04:002022-03-13T14:29:52.520-04:00McCalls m7969 in linen<p>Okay, spring can come now, I'm ready! </p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjdvyN4Q6JFPsuiQsY6GmJf7OS5tMqBbfYRZuSi8fuUv-YQGkw-1uG3qb4tG5oWkrE__iguVTiegAjofZNayzjMR1tCwTec6SOMTorl4ZJpGHmIWoPNgzLA4w2WcHxJITgPJW8din708UuKxQRkV0HvkWEEpWdFfPBdrV6XNOU_6N3p0LdWeN9gF4YIwA=s1200" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1198" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjdvyN4Q6JFPsuiQsY6GmJf7OS5tMqBbfYRZuSi8fuUv-YQGkw-1uG3qb4tG5oWkrE__iguVTiegAjofZNayzjMR1tCwTec6SOMTorl4ZJpGHmIWoPNgzLA4w2WcHxJITgPJW8din708UuKxQRkV0HvkWEEpWdFfPBdrV6XNOU_6N3p0LdWeN9gF4YIwA=w638-h640" width="638" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>This is m7969, which is must be something of a blockbuster hit for McCalls, it is all over Instagram. With sweet sleeve shape and easy, flattering silhouette that seems to look good on everyone, I was smitten and had to give it a try. </p><p>I purchased a paper pattern months ago, but the yellow tissue and newsprint directions were bringing up memories of frustration and disappointment from my youthful attempts at sewing. I also just really dislike working with that fragile, crinkly tissue paper. When Minerva made the PDF available with their newsletter, I finally felt empowered to move ahead.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEheAh0wL2ckRyLR462UyXX3-9pO3FhFNYII9zQ47oBCdw1jVmPa2nXi16B1_r9BSpJjPnyYtPNIdJyQPg_7pyFEikz0062xLF058QPbru23rYTT_pMinVQ0OAQco4aEfRsSh23qdYLuHNNelgwdqaE1oqmhgHnqqH05FdwOxDTRYSXYUFGq1kj5EcNS3A=s1200" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="809" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEheAh0wL2ckRyLR462UyXX3-9pO3FhFNYII9zQ47oBCdw1jVmPa2nXi16B1_r9BSpJjPnyYtPNIdJyQPg_7pyFEikz0062xLF058QPbru23rYTT_pMinVQ0OAQco4aEfRsSh23qdYLuHNNelgwdqaE1oqmhgHnqqH05FdwOxDTRYSXYUFGq1kj5EcNS3A=w432-h640" width="432" /></a></div><p>Of course I made View A (like everyone else!) but I subbed in the skirt from the Closet Core Elodie wrap dress because I don't like gathered skirts. I can't really even say why, but every time I make a dress with a gathered skirt, I wear it once and it sits in my closet until I change it out.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhsKdfjkl2Wmvx7uBCyMNLL7h1-Nm08n6F2CujHP8nPnNdqN9Gi5MtiGjEYTK_P9uk76rQXJ6cPdJDa_Bv8KivXfcIBGhCvPKNzm7QOfIa0s67wf9JNvxqQS5IgbRmlSi0NVVw8hgt96cLIOZzCyUuxMIHRCRgy6NIjFmka5be-gM5smLUBRmo-q0kgow=s1200" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1010" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhsKdfjkl2Wmvx7uBCyMNLL7h1-Nm08n6F2CujHP8nPnNdqN9Gi5MtiGjEYTK_P9uk76rQXJ6cPdJDa_Bv8KivXfcIBGhCvPKNzm7QOfIa0s67wf9JNvxqQS5IgbRmlSi0NVVw8hgt96cLIOZzCyUuxMIHRCRgy6NIjFmka5be-gM5smLUBRmo-q0kgow=w538-h640" width="538" /></a></div><p>After looking at other blogger's versions, I decided go for sewing to my measurements, which seemed likely to turn out pleasantly oversized. That put me at an M bust and L waist, which are in two different PDFs (or two different pattern envelopes!). I'm ALWAYS right in the middle of size splits, I hate it when companies don't overlap their sizes. So... I printed off the M and just guessed at where the waist would be on the L. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgFDDa-gwFXTuIJW0dsjGAqeJWHoN9xKJTvxRRWfb26cI-DZ15W3fDwlm-hgF5anGyr3F4nqi0GVhofLopMXUkKiGCgONQ6qN0IbyYCeP9ilyv2Wv7dV0iT0BQ1i2EnEBDnW7kyo3VlGK0tEfXbSeXR2vCrgyhVjWwtuydfF4blZmMJOH7iOiymsWuQmQ=s1200" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="933" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgFDDa-gwFXTuIJW0dsjGAqeJWHoN9xKJTvxRRWfb26cI-DZ15W3fDwlm-hgF5anGyr3F4nqi0GVhofLopMXUkKiGCgONQ6qN0IbyYCeP9ilyv2Wv7dV0iT0BQ1i2EnEBDnW7kyo3VlGK0tEfXbSeXR2vCrgyhVjWwtuydfF4blZmMJOH7iOiymsWuQmQ=w498-h640" width="498" /></a></div><p>The one mod that many bloggers have done that I think is very smart is making the front wrap a little more modest. I know if I do this, I'll get lots more wear out of the dress, rather than saving it for some rare (since covid, non-existent!) sexy date night occasion. I extended the front triangle 3.5 inches and drew a straight line to the shoulder, then extended the front bindings (by a totally arbitrary amount, and I just cut off the excess). I also shortened the sleeves by an inch at the shorten/lengthen line. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhIR8hPleoKRfchDQCg-_agerPWmu3yTCCey60CLEUIMhHI6Afe1JZBG-Mynj-jfskfC98LjPWxGwux87Ummykw5QNuwpM1D7Ns01HTbuZ3F8nYAUo50m92ZpJ1ZATOuJdZzaHYbEXBWJCqyTRK5Km3Wjx9i53aJGR65_wBvgxRmhzs_w59_vkkqhWbSw=s1200" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1198" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhIR8hPleoKRfchDQCg-_agerPWmu3yTCCey60CLEUIMhHI6Afe1JZBG-Mynj-jfskfC98LjPWxGwux87Ummykw5QNuwpM1D7Ns01HTbuZ3F8nYAUo50m92ZpJ1ZATOuJdZzaHYbEXBWJCqyTRK5Km3Wjx9i53aJGR65_wBvgxRmhzs_w59_vkkqhWbSw=w638-h640" width="638" /></a></div><p>The linen print was a birthday purchase from <a href="http://emmaonesock.com">Emmaonesock</a> several years ago. I didn't have quite enough to cut out the quite full skirt of the Elodie, so I pulled out a remnant of navy linen to complete the skirt. </p><p>Of course I added POCKETS-- having pockets in all of my clothing is one of the great advantages of sewing my own clothes. Designers, take heed-- us busy women need options for pockets. Since this pattern didn't include any pockets, I borrowed the divinely deep pockets from the Closet Core Amy jumpsuit and added them at the side seams. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj798klgm2tlql_EfPuAnTJ3elMa6SF93KdofB8As8_XhYHHb1aRijbtRTM2mBiZPivSPFlBvK0HIiOvvWD4zgmi3ft2qANSCotMkAPOiJbAlAopOX-KpTA5nXb_Q3jAOBy_b-pN0qeJLFB0dTkSRPUNkJGYWOrEbm1NBslRKqlFV-1iP_-LzLVgDh2-g=s1200" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="896" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj798klgm2tlql_EfPuAnTJ3elMa6SF93KdofB8As8_XhYHHb1aRijbtRTM2mBiZPivSPFlBvK0HIiOvvWD4zgmi3ft2qANSCotMkAPOiJbAlAopOX-KpTA5nXb_Q3jAOBy_b-pN0qeJLFB0dTkSRPUNkJGYWOrEbm1NBslRKqlFV-1iP_-LzLVgDh2-g=w478-h640" width="478" /></a></div><p>I started out blindly following the instructions-- but after considering it, I ripped those first seams and went with my own order of construction. With this fine linen I made french seams throughout, starting with the raglan seams and doing the underarm and side seams in one fell swoop. The instructions called for an inordinate amount of basting-- who does that, and why cut the neck binding on the bias, only to interface it on the grain? I didn't bother with the interfacing, I just treated it like any other bias bound neckline. I also didn't hand- slip stitch the bindings as suggested-- I might have if this was a solid or a slick fabric, but with a pattern and toothy linen, stitching in the ditch to secure the binding worked just fine. From taping the PDF to hemming, I had it done in a day. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjXnKlg4uPWsnkP0fDAk949BtHmP_C3QClC_lmSvfXi01S8krSDNjpVgBBVEMZu_bx4LFgU6lPpQAxjECdlU9_mTljrqHVhfnBmdOJ90-yS3olBTqBfb8mNrb-BrVPt5qmnpEasy234RiELkj2rbeiVLsr-ll77qagmUJirJr03Iwo5V7fiLDKcIET1-A=s1200" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="836" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjXnKlg4uPWsnkP0fDAk949BtHmP_C3QClC_lmSvfXi01S8krSDNjpVgBBVEMZu_bx4LFgU6lPpQAxjECdlU9_mTljrqHVhfnBmdOJ90-yS3olBTqBfb8mNrb-BrVPt5qmnpEasy234RiELkj2rbeiVLsr-ll77qagmUJirJr03Iwo5V7fiLDKcIET1-A=w446-h640" width="446" /></a></div><p>It seems that the binding was meant to be shorter than the neckline to have the effect of snugging in the wrap. Since I modified the front for more coverage, I sort of missed this effect, but ended up compensating when baste-fitting the front by pulling down on the bindings until the front laid flat with no gaping. I also sewed the waistline about an inch higher in the front, and added small pleats under the bust on the bodice and on the skirt. </p><p>In terms the quality of the pattern-- I really think McCalls missed an opportunity to impress the sewing community. The PDF was sort of baffling-- wrong pagination, and how exactly were you supposed to put it together? No instructions on this that I could find, I didn't see any scale markings to check my printer scaling-- I eventually decided by trial and error that I was supposed to line up the little diamonds that I could hardly see through opaque printer paper, and I just had to trust that my printer was not scaling inappropriately. The PDF instructions did seem somewhat improved from what I remember of old McCalls patterns, but still not the kind of considered, tested construction that many Indie designers have perfected. </p><p>Fortunately, it is a forgiving pattern in terms of fit and I have lots of experience sewing now so I can compensate for poor instructions, and the dress turned out beautifully. The sleeves are everything I was hoping for-- voluminous and elegant in this lightweight linen. It is just so cute and comfy, and I'm ready for spring as soon as Mother Nature is!</p>dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-76539970127690479412022-03-12T14:30:00.001-05:002022-03-13T15:06:04.289-04:00Altering boots for wide calfs-- the Belenka Sierra<p>I love knee high boots, but as an avid cyclist, skiier, and joggger, I have always had trouble fitting my calves into them. Boots marketed as "wide calf" are often of lesser quality, have unsightly giant elastic gussets, or are just too huge for me. This problem has only intensified now that I've transitioned to minimal/barefoot footwear-- there just aren't a lot of choices in knee high boots. </p><p>This fall I purchased the Belenka Sierra, and after getting them professionally stretched, I could zip them, with difficulty. But then, ski season started, and when I tried them on in mid-January, there was absolutely no way I was going to zip them. </p><p>I considered zip in gussets, and they seem like a good idea for some people. However, I can't see how they won't be sort of fussy and leave unsightly gaps, and having volume added only on the inside seems like it would be pretty lopsided. And they are quite expensive. </p><p>So I decided that I would be bold and alter my boots to fit. I bought a piece of red leather on Etsy, then used dark red dye to get the color even closer to my boots. </p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjOpVVCeA95I19soLkza_Rthe7LJf3dwsuT6C7zbnLFjIOsyGvNYUtHeWo_EA1KwtNPTSou_Ci27cA9xh3CUWZtdPGe8IDYzQ_KQchPPwr58EqEUgxZLznEDJns29rz3AMq5nBjW1JOp-JWIX6SMRpSylugFvzlNu9dvpNd7u63BZOGxk-MzkHLWZ60WA=s1200" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="813" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjOpVVCeA95I19soLkza_Rthe7LJf3dwsuT6C7zbnLFjIOsyGvNYUtHeWo_EA1KwtNPTSou_Ci27cA9xh3CUWZtdPGe8IDYzQ_KQchPPwr58EqEUgxZLznEDJns29rz3AMq5nBjW1JOp-JWIX6SMRpSylugFvzlNu9dvpNd7u63BZOGxk-MzkHLWZ60WA=w434-h640" width="434" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p><p>Then, using the measurements of my calf, I designed a pattern for an insert that followed the shape of my calf. I decided to put the insert in the back of the boot where I needed the most volume and where it would be the least disruptive to the shape of the boot. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiP_dbmEo0d-zf6j_B40ONIinQqzjWiu6nRM4zAMT32zksGXjShZHlWSmjbKOmUxVf2htX7d_seoFDx4ytsLcPR3WZWlsezJ1Wo6T4dzmiN8yxuxVQoN4c5P6el30LIzjXxDrIucY4GeZPT9kOHfhdksZitJncn_lPge3y_JPGc8c7GzBCV1yNnIjnOZg=s1200" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiP_dbmEo0d-zf6j_B40ONIinQqzjWiu6nRM4zAMT32zksGXjShZHlWSmjbKOmUxVf2htX7d_seoFDx4ytsLcPR3WZWlsezJ1Wo6T4dzmiN8yxuxVQoN4c5P6el30LIzjXxDrIucY4GeZPT9kOHfhdksZitJncn_lPge3y_JPGc8c7GzBCV1yNnIjnOZg=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhRAzAhjqr9atGh5_W3zzCE2KiXnfLKDN14atFBw2OUBHBKAJf_oH2TVUP_JXVeM-P6-qybvq2O2k8rIe1agY3zXs2MEIgq1b3ucrCVMgUb-SWJd3BG7NR5oLFrEC6D8PUBDqptnGs33-ODNnvp1WhqtbH19nSWDzmuOwjXc4CcKiCt5l1BKzmz1niOEw=s1200" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhRAzAhjqr9atGh5_W3zzCE2KiXnfLKDN14atFBw2OUBHBKAJf_oH2TVUP_JXVeM-P6-qybvq2O2k8rIe1agY3zXs2MEIgq1b3ucrCVMgUb-SWJd3BG7NR5oLFrEC6D8PUBDqptnGs33-ODNnvp1WhqtbH19nSWDzmuOwjXc4CcKiCt5l1BKzmz1niOEw=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgt4JIcplPIMa27SFKYT1cQ6yo15z1APMioyuUC7oi8IwKxaGKvWCT7zoh_FgrMCUrgWLwEk8oXyeIflF4ivaE9IEc3yIWHOJUdXsKn7H90nzQfTW_28PSH57QcWk1F7O51biuYrMIPEvabImjbd5pZo6G9zJH5iQQO4rEGdELVDvNIdsJmy00yJIHTfQ=s1200" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgt4JIcplPIMa27SFKYT1cQ6yo15z1APMioyuUC7oi8IwKxaGKvWCT7zoh_FgrMCUrgWLwEk8oXyeIflF4ivaE9IEc3yIWHOJUdXsKn7H90nzQfTW_28PSH57QcWk1F7O51biuYrMIPEvabImjbd5pZo6G9zJH5iQQO4rEGdELVDvNIdsJmy00yJIHTfQ=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEil3iT6VOgpZoXD3CTYE67PdpZCGQCc4UMElQvVPC3ZDA4IP_0DefgGcVAh3zMXLWXBFyke5qFKmhcUoFV5CJzbeoD-bMNySkzPxfp78sZ-DrLOsW6BlhAxdiBzt2VtuJ_DanXlKHDgg0UBJPLsf2VNzXa1u0Nax45ZHIkW1HrtHA6IoM7QFDey48oJJw=s1200" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="960" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEil3iT6VOgpZoXD3CTYE67PdpZCGQCc4UMElQvVPC3ZDA4IP_0DefgGcVAh3zMXLWXBFyke5qFKmhcUoFV5CJzbeoD-bMNySkzPxfp78sZ-DrLOsW6BlhAxdiBzt2VtuJ_DanXlKHDgg0UBJPLsf2VNzXa1u0Nax45ZHIkW1HrtHA6IoM7QFDey48oJJw=w320-h400" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p>The boot is lined with wool, so I cut the gusset out of leather and wool, and glued the two together. Then I cut out a strip from the back of the boot and inserted the new gusset in between the leather and the lining. I played around with using various kinds of clips and adhesives (but I lack a true leather adhesive). In the end I just held it in place, and sewed it first across the bottom of the gusset, then up each side. </p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhY2xGotRscrp2DPJ1uKw7AqfV0qCIFq8ho_Tl3kIbJFpTEHZfuQnMTcfxR4LY358GGA8PBJsOqDSeHPpqsATUDl0uN2MemWp8dc8Ef069sT11Bz7j5-tzqEzbBl5n3uqb06kh5TqJfbb68LBvT_8N0UefRrFkTLIxkuMrr-tzKXQvahw4LAVHOMg-Vmw=s1200" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhY2xGotRscrp2DPJ1uKw7AqfV0qCIFq8ho_Tl3kIbJFpTEHZfuQnMTcfxR4LY358GGA8PBJsOqDSeHPpqsATUDl0uN2MemWp8dc8Ef069sT11Bz7j5-tzqEzbBl5n3uqb06kh5TqJfbb68LBvT_8N0UefRrFkTLIxkuMrr-tzKXQvahw4LAVHOMg-Vmw=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj_kJS2HzFoBDAQuDFq7lwxQq1vQH_53gXz0Aa7-WG77laCAjhqZ6M_e3EYBoWUFuMOPpdJMdfUKYwYUhL22APkmTK9gztV1BgJSkKCULwat2tzpVIplvxkN7KBfi5GaSDgcUj-YwwJBPCApFcNz4ynqvtdksVRhYRovA_hLba2cj3Q7MAgNJmtBMFdXQ=s1200" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj_kJS2HzFoBDAQuDFq7lwxQq1vQH_53gXz0Aa7-WG77laCAjhqZ6M_e3EYBoWUFuMOPpdJMdfUKYwYUhL22APkmTK9gztV1BgJSkKCULwat2tzpVIplvxkN7KBfi5GaSDgcUj-YwwJBPCApFcNz4ynqvtdksVRhYRovA_hLba2cj3Q7MAgNJmtBMFdXQ=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiF6CL9wchYI5qsMk2864C95Muq7TJBYnsITVtqoL6NIAxv1MEvuk2jgTbBEJBrE9dIVizUGMXIYJ6EvvqcDavQ0G3FGwuAgWpJpk-WiivUXh4UhLJ-vtN7VBRffjQ9sHjefwBw647q8O-LeNPS3VF9H77EtjEA2BwpNl1EeiP50EXTMayPQD91gt7kgw=s1200" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="960" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiF6CL9wchYI5qsMk2864C95Muq7TJBYnsITVtqoL6NIAxv1MEvuk2jgTbBEJBrE9dIVizUGMXIYJ6EvvqcDavQ0G3FGwuAgWpJpk-WiivUXh4UhLJ-vtN7VBRffjQ9sHjefwBw647q8O-LeNPS3VF9H77EtjEA2BwpNl1EeiP50EXTMayPQD91gt7kgw=w320-h400" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p>My first try was not perfect-- the gusset was actually too large. I unpicked it adjusted the size, and resewed it. When I was happy with it, I sewed a second line of stitching to secure it (also, the boot is double-stitched in most seams, so it is in keeping with the aesthetic). </p><p>I used a leather needle in my regular sewing machine, and matching gutterman thread. Fortunately the leather fed easily without sticking. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjW8aH9YopQcOpJVpdS59gYSL1yU-7_TEee5Qqouj-Mm4DlfHy6gDjE-NDa1nSMBmDxDOppetFHMFyAY4pMwKwgVJ0aKbthVLxHilivSJNgYJR9nMrGVYHqr8DxbRdcfd34HUzxc76R0ybcpdux24sqR-gvkkPZXBaQrKmzmwCOlD_VOXjZhwce8MkCBw=s1200" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjW8aH9YopQcOpJVpdS59gYSL1yU-7_TEee5Qqouj-Mm4DlfHy6gDjE-NDa1nSMBmDxDOppetFHMFyAY4pMwKwgVJ0aKbthVLxHilivSJNgYJR9nMrGVYHqr8DxbRdcfd34HUzxc76R0ybcpdux24sqR-gvkkPZXBaQrKmzmwCOlD_VOXjZhwce8MkCBw=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjY2fKAFvK03sS3pkCAg_XT8kqI2AHgJAI4FnMsIxnDtZ-V0yihU9Ely1kzgGlg354j8E6aTTjwLz6HPUhAXnLJeCku0PgW0k8URTK3YJl6KXw35Z1BzHwZN2xl8VoiiAMA-pFvVaU0E3GOaatLweD8aVyUT6s90qXzDhm03p7Do3hhGEflSMLREzw0lQ=s1200" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjY2fKAFvK03sS3pkCAg_XT8kqI2AHgJAI4FnMsIxnDtZ-V0yihU9Ely1kzgGlg354j8E6aTTjwLz6HPUhAXnLJeCku0PgW0k8URTK3YJl6KXw35Z1BzHwZN2xl8VoiiAMA-pFvVaU0E3GOaatLweD8aVyUT6s90qXzDhm03p7Do3hhGEflSMLREzw0lQ=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjpIsZA8JsT9x_Th9YypTtCkIOxAxwJS5WXT9Ow4j-mD2bxV2mVrzp8NYEu1CklqbqSe-qzrJd-LC8MZg7Cbx97HsqPcngCXKAsKT2l5u9oRr7XYYhllnBdVTc-PgfleDArkssDTEQ8nrFZ36qIcAYR_HZlJiqi06XbwwAv1qjr1fgU4E7EPUJP54IhZA=s1200" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjpIsZA8JsT9x_Th9YypTtCkIOxAxwJS5WXT9Ow4j-mD2bxV2mVrzp8NYEu1CklqbqSe-qzrJd-LC8MZg7Cbx97HsqPcngCXKAsKT2l5u9oRr7XYYhllnBdVTc-PgfleDArkssDTEQ8nrFZ36qIcAYR_HZlJiqi06XbwwAv1qjr1fgU4E7EPUJP54IhZA=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></div><br /><p>Having boots that actually fit my calves is amazing! I've never owned boots that I can actually zip up without effort, over socks or leggings. I will totally do this again if I purchase another pair of knee high boots. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyACEXFw-6pe5TPPUcm5YTmeOPcO_rGFPZHpZ0OOWExI1Qu1ZSvNYG8Y-pY5P65lHonmpPWxtD1PH_HMss15w' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-80425438212618317202021-11-07T14:24:00.005-05:002022-03-13T15:07:42.990-04:00Be Lenka Sierra Review: Barefoot Minimalist Riding Boots<p>Update: I ended up altering these boots to fit my calves better. See the blog post <a href="http://unlikelynest.blogspot.com/2022/03/altering-boots-for-wide-calfs-belenka.html">here</a>.</p><p>----------------------------</p><p>Lately I have been very into barefoot or minimal style shoes. Everyone's feet are different, but for me, switching to barefoot style shoes has made a huge difference in my long-term foot pain and problems. </p><p>If you are not familiar with them, "barefoot" shoes have absolutely no heel or heel lift and are sometimes called "zero drop." They also have a foot-shaped toe box so that you can spread out your toes fully and a thin sole with minimal padding that allows your foot to have more of a sensation of "feeling" the ground. </p><p>The first barefoot shoes I tried were athletic shoes to help with my foot pain when walking and running for fitness, but I soon found that switching all of my shoes to barefoot style shoes helped my feet feel better on a daily basis. </p><p>My job as a professor involves standing and walking for much of the day, and wearing barefoot shoes has really helped me to stay on my feet for longer with less foot pain. It seems counter-intuitive since arch support and padding seem like a good idea when your feet hurt and your arches ache, but I've tried so many of the "orthopedic" brands but none of them really helped in the long term. </p><p>I was really nervous about the footwear I was bringing to Europe with me since the amount of walking I do when teaching in Rome far exceeds my lifestyle in the US, but I was very happy to find that my barefoot shoes have kept my feet happy and pain-free.</p><p>The other advantage of being in Europe is that there are barefoot brands that are more accessible here. Most brands will ship to the US, but often do not accept returns or the cost of shipping for returns is prohibitive. </p><p>My latest purchase has been the Be Lenka Sierra, a leather riding boot by a manufacturer in Slovakia. I just couldn't wait to share them with you!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k3LfEGP-gzs/YYglJdbalII/AAAAAAAAIU8/YeD0eQZ9tZAZyZbW6CbivOhGIv4rtFrtwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_8515.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k3LfEGP-gzs/YYglJdbalII/AAAAAAAAIU8/YeD0eQZ9tZAZyZbW6CbivOhGIv4rtFrtwCLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/IMG_8515.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p>Some <a href="https://www.belenka.com/barefoot-shoes-women/">Be Lenka</a> shoes are available from <a href="https://anyas-shop.com/">Anya's Shop</a> for free shipping and returns in the US. I had purchased the <a href="https://www.belenka.com/barefoot-shoes-women/">Be Lenka</a> City in suede from Anya's Shop before coming to Europe, and these are one of my most comfortable shoes. For days when I know I'll be walking for a long time on varied terrain, these are my shoe of choice, so I knew that there was a good chance that I would like other Be Lenka shoes. Anya's Shop carries the Be Lenka Sierra, but they don't currently have the Ruby and I was smitten by this eye-catching color. </p><p>My feet are 25.5 cm long and I ordered my usual size in BeLenka, a 41. My calves are wider than the measurements on the size chart-- they measure about 42cm, and the 41s have a calf circumference of 38.2. However, I have successfully stretched boots to fit my calves in the past, so I decided to give them a try. Since I'm in Europe, returns would not be terribly difficult if necessary. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l9yS_Jy7zDE/YYglI-8OlFI/AAAAAAAAIVQ/H4_X7LOStkMOIQJ0TaEstgwVhyCrS1KagCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_8514.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l9yS_Jy7zDE/YYglI-8OlFI/AAAAAAAAIVQ/H4_X7LOStkMOIQJ0TaEstgwVhyCrS1KagCPcBGAYYCw/w480-h640/IMG_8514.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><p>When my Be Lenka Sierras arrived and I first put them on the heels felt very stiff and uncomfortable, and I could not zip them up. However the foot box was a perfect fit for my toes in both width and length. </p><p>After a bit of wearing them around the house the heel started to feel more comfortable, and some stretching of the elastic caused a bit of relaxation, so with some work I was able to carefully zip them up. Wearing them around the house I have continued to break them in, and today I wore them to lunch at a friend's house. They are still quite tight in the calf, but very comfortable in the foot, like wearing a cozy slipper. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xGOWOVNvKyc/YYglHkU5B_I/AAAAAAAAIVQ/gIpp_F_Nl0MZmNKSSAoDZwTXDiXMTg_jQCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_8511.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xGOWOVNvKyc/YYglHkU5B_I/AAAAAAAAIVQ/gIpp_F_Nl0MZmNKSSAoDZwTXDiXMTg_jQCPcBGAYYCw/w480-h640/IMG_8511.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><p>They still might require a trip to the cobbler for some calf stretching, but the fact that I can wear them gives me hope that only a little bit more space is needed to make a perfect fit on the calf. In some ways this is probably ideal since the boot with time will have a perfect fit with no sagging. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3R60zC4G8uQ/YYglIDYKaLI/AAAAAAAAIVI/fbXjldkm7uou9okCPuSrD7Q4Z_sV206FwCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_8512.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3R60zC4G8uQ/YYglIDYKaLI/AAAAAAAAIVI/fbXjldkm7uou9okCPuSrD7Q4Z_sV206FwCPcBGAYYCw/w480-h640/IMG_8512.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><p>I am very happy that this boot fits, since I very much missed having a riding boot last winter as I was transitioning to barefoot shoes. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OfPXTUviQK4/YYglHJ9yahI/AAAAAAAAIVQ/GUQ-i8nNjP8Q677QS7DXJ3LAETXFtJbWgCPcBGAYYCw/s1440/FCDF5A71-3A99-4AC1-9DCA-65B60E6DDBCF.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1440" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OfPXTUviQK4/YYglHJ9yahI/AAAAAAAAIVQ/GUQ-i8nNjP8Q677QS7DXJ3LAETXFtJbWgCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h640/FCDF5A71-3A99-4AC1-9DCA-65B60E6DDBCF.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p>dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-29441455083240463672021-11-06T16:30:00.001-04:002021-11-07T15:52:32.720-05:00Zaqq Equity Brogue- Barefoot Chelsea Boot Review<p>When I was looking for a great barefoot Chelsea boot, I came across the brand Zaqq. Their Equity Broque Cognac was exactly what I was looking for-- a beautifully made chelsea boot lined with leather in a zero drop, thin sole, natural foot shape shoe.</p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zhPX2Ih92ug/YYg6KTBIYpI/AAAAAAAAIVo/q-d7CEixuKggcQ_jqgc6cQQY-TDXncbaACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_8521.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zhPX2Ih92ug/YYg6KTBIYpI/AAAAAAAAIVo/q-d7CEixuKggcQ_jqgc6cQQY-TDXncbaACLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/IMG_8521.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p>I tried to order this shoe from the US but I was unsuccessful, as they required me to send my SS number and I am not comfortable giving this to vendor. When I knew I would be coming to Europe, I was excited that I would be able to try this boot. </p><p>My foot is 25.5 cm, so after watching their videos and looking at the size chart, I chose the 44. This boot was massively too large on me, so I sent it back and ordered the 42. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bM6Nbs03VXM/YYg6KqHUMGI/AAAAAAAAIVs/S-FJ_cEqFuE0YYyrFAxTceUge4KmvoFGACPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_8520.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bM6Nbs03VXM/YYg6KqHUMGI/AAAAAAAAIVs/S-FJ_cEqFuE0YYyrFAxTceUge4KmvoFGACPcBGAYYCw/w480-h640/IMG_8520.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><p>The 42 fits in the length, but the boot is very wide in the ankle and heel. Both of my heels slip when I walk. I tried adding a wool insole from other shoe, but this does not fix the problem. You can see how baggy these are on my foot in the photos.</p><p>I have a fairly wide, high volume foot, but these are still too wide for me and they are on their way back. Zaqq has been good about honoring their return policy, but they do not pay return shipping outside of Germany.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yf8xYTg0n4M/YYg6Joh7uhI/AAAAAAAAIV0/r0jxACDenF4qv6wpyfnq8z9yqp4HB6tHQCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_8519.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yf8xYTg0n4M/YYg6Joh7uhI/AAAAAAAAIV0/r0jxACDenF4qv6wpyfnq8z9yqp4HB6tHQCPcBGAYYCw/w480-h640/IMG_8519.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><p>Interestingly, my husband also ordered a pair of Equity chelsea boots. The size he chose based on measurements was too small for him, so he ordered a size larger, and this fits his foot very well. He has a very high volume foot in both the ankle and heel. </p><p>Happy shoe shopping!</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-80063129885855562742021-10-26T16:04:00.000-04:002021-10-26T16:04:43.606-04:00Gluten Free in Rome: Mama Eat Lab Review<p>Hi all! If you follow me on Instagram, you know that I've been in Rome two months now, and I have another month to go. Sooo, not much sewing... but if you are interested in the wardrobe I brought with me, I've been posting on Instagram and I'll probably do a round up here soon. </p><p>However, I have been doing a lot of great eating... gluten free eating!</p><p>Do you remember back when the lockdowns started, how we all stocked up on comfort food like bread (or tried to bake it, emptying out stores of baking products!) Well... I did that. For a couple weeks I ate more bread products than I have for many years, and felt terrible. I've always tried to deny that gluten was my problem, but this experience seemed to make engaging it unavoidable. </p><p>So I tried avoiding gluten... and it was amazing. Within weeks, I felt like my digestive system had reverted the kind of normal function that I remember from my early 20s. For me, it was more effective than all sorts of other diets and supplementary regimes I've tried over the years. I've been practicing a gluten free diet ever since. </p><p>I don't have an official diagnosis, and I'm not really interested in one. My symptoms are not serious enough to really warrant long and arduous discussions, testing and isolation diets. I'm also very open to the idea that I'm not really allergic to gluten and it could be some element of the mass production and continuing refinement of wheat in our culture. I found it very interesting that on one of our trips, I ate a whole meal of ancient wheat grown, harvested, and prepared on a farm in Umbria with no noticeable intestinal effects. Alternatively, during a recent cooking demo, I consumed a commercial wheat pasta masterfully prepared into some of the most delicious <i>Carbonara</i> ever tasted and paid a price afterwards. </p><p>In any case, my body is happier when I forego gluten, so I have been seeking out places to enjoy Italian cuisine gluten-free and I've had some wonderful culinary experiences that I'd love to share!</p><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q2jIvspcUcU/YXhNMUh42QI/AAAAAAAAITo/A8NYBQZl0isPegUCrntks8pp8msYOFkXQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_7732.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q2jIvspcUcU/YXhNMUh42QI/AAAAAAAAITo/A8NYBQZl0isPegUCrntks8pp8msYOFkXQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_7732.HEIC" width="640" /></a></p><p>Today after an incredible 3-hour tour of the Vatican Museums, we stopped to refuel at Mama Eat Lab, Borgo Pio, 28.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eANJfYxo6og/YXhNKrIv5xI/AAAAAAAAIT4/bhaZ1ZmJnkwUidYRnxfFMv99yyV7ywbKACPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_7706.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eANJfYxo6og/YXhNKrIv5xI/AAAAAAAAIT4/bhaZ1ZmJnkwUidYRnxfFMv99yyV7ywbKACPcBGAYYCw/w640-h480/IMG_7706.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p>This is a small place, a few outside tables and about eight 4-person tables. This was my second visit, and we had no problem finding a lunch table with no reservations, although occupancy rose and fell over the time we were there. Clearly, people had heard about it and were seeking it out! There are English menus and servers are comfortable speaking English, but they are also happy to speak Italian. Prices are pretty reasonable, about what you'd find at a comparable non-gluten free restaurant.</p><p>This is a sister restaurant of Mama Eats Trastevere, which is an old standby of the gluten-free crowd. The Borgo location has a smaller menu and focuses on "street food" which can be take out or served at the table. You can also get pizza or pasta and various other <i>primi piatti</i>, all gluten free. They have gluten free beer and reasonable wines available, as well as the usual soft drinks and sparkling or still water. </p><p>The appetizers are amazing, you could definitely make a whole meal of them. This time we got two of the 25cm <i>Arancini</i>, Pistachio and Rago. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--y7e2lvAbDM/YXhNKiqi1PI/AAAAAAAAIUA/hBLpZ-P9n6cLQPu0Oa1cA1UdfnvfalsLwCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_7711.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--y7e2lvAbDM/YXhNKiqi1PI/AAAAAAAAIUA/hBLpZ-P9n6cLQPu0Oa1cA1UdfnvfalsLwCPcBGAYYCw/w480-h640/IMG_7711.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Usually arancini in Rome are round, fist-sized affairs. The long format is sort of unusual, but it does seem to maximize the delicious crispy gluten-free crust. Inside there is perfect risotto around a cheesy filling. Just right for two to share! Our family of four rapidly consumed the two long arancini down to the last crumb. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OzU1licW6vM/YXhNKjmfkAI/AAAAAAAAIT0/LC0lhbpStVM4gmZICO189w6_BaQfAYZQACPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_7714.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OzU1licW6vM/YXhNKjmfkAI/AAAAAAAAIT0/LC0lhbpStVM4gmZICO189w6_BaQfAYZQACPcBGAYYCw/w640-h480/IMG_7714.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p>Also on the appetizer menu are <i>Crocchè</i> (very similar to the long arancini, but with a potato base and delicious fillings like mushroom) and fried pizza, both of which we tried last time and were wonderful. </p><p>For main dishes, we sampled a few different items. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U-07M49tzEs/YXhNL5ufmBI/AAAAAAAAIT4/-sIcNa9wSZcq6da6r-Fqy1XRW6b3npeKgCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_7724.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U-07M49tzEs/YXhNL5ufmBI/AAAAAAAAIT4/-sIcNa9wSZcq6da6r-Fqy1XRW6b3npeKgCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h480/IMG_7724.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i>Polpette al Formagio</i>, meatballs with cheese and french fries.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y7asqZ6_MjY/YXhNLruVg4I/AAAAAAAAIT8/Gy8KU6k56cYk5IEaw0i66GrXTb7Jd1_4gCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_7722.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y7asqZ6_MjY/YXhNLruVg4I/AAAAAAAAIT8/Gy8KU6k56cYk5IEaw0i66GrXTb7Jd1_4gCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h480/IMG_7722.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><i>Frittura di mare</i>: fried calamari, anchovies, and shrimp.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NE8RoVVpQhY/YXhNLrTcsHI/AAAAAAAAIT8/5syFDKDSxTIyYO_lI_H4C_0IfDd5k2edQCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_7720.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NE8RoVVpQhY/YXhNLrTcsHI/AAAAAAAAIT8/5syFDKDSxTIyYO_lI_H4C_0IfDd5k2edQCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h480/IMG_7720.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p>And the old standby, the <i>Margherita Pizza</i>.</p><p>I especially enjoyed the pizza, the crust was light and fluffy in an almost Naples kind of way that I have yet to enjoy in a gluten-free pizza. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q2jIvspcUcU/YXhNMUh42QI/AAAAAAAAIUA/vUtv_lfEPlwIbhehkbl0oQd4ZLvudoLwgCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_7732.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q2jIvspcUcU/YXhNMUh42QI/AAAAAAAAIUA/vUtv_lfEPlwIbhehkbl0oQd4ZLvudoLwgCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h480/IMG_7732.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ta3CgmzIQvQ/YXhNM5M9bfI/AAAAAAAAIUE/hrPglVFXrrUWnX-NmD50q_u0-Iw3WYgyQCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_7739.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ta3CgmzIQvQ/YXhNM5M9bfI/AAAAAAAAIUE/hrPglVFXrrUWnX-NmD50q_u0-Iw3WYgyQCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h480/IMG_7739.HEIC" width="640" /></a></div><p>For dessert we had <i>Scunizielli Nutella</i> which are fried pizza strips drizzled with chocolate hazelnut. Delicious! You can get them in a paper cone to go or on a plate. A single serving was more than enough for our family to eat their fill of sweet fluffy fried dough. Last time we had fresh donuts with hazelnut sauce... these were out of this world, but they weren't on the menu today. I'm going to have to keep a watch on the menu, they are worth going back for!</p>dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-58683960456163917742021-03-04T10:52:00.003-05:002021-03-04T10:52:19.462-05:00Belatedly loving the Burnside Bibs in Telio Silky Noil<p>Y'all know by now that I overalls are my fave. If there was any holding back, the quarantine did that in... why dress to please anyone but myself? </p><p>I've made a countless number of Closet Case Jenny Overalls (at least eight!) and a very well loved pair of Helen's Closet Yanta Overalls. With spring on my mind, if not yet in the weather (it snowed again this morning!) I was thinking about making a lighter weight, more jumpsuit-y pair of overalls. Enter the Burnside Bibs by Sew House Seven!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DBc-I1QVYiI/YED_soLR6VI/AAAAAAAAICw/nizuCrrpYWshyPFjvuFpftoO5lSMGPf4wCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/P1020007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1335" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DBc-I1QVYiI/YED_soLR6VI/AAAAAAAAICw/nizuCrrpYWshyPFjvuFpftoO5lSMGPf4wCPcBGAYYCw/w418-h640/P1020007.jpg" width="418" /></a></div><br /><p>While I have long loved all of the gorgeous Burnside Bibs sewn by the many talented makers I follow, I've been skeptical of how much I would like the clever tie system that distinguishes the Burnside Bibs. Even in the more streamlined versions, it tends to produce gathers across the bum, which I don't care for on my own body. I also have a quiet dislike of dangly ties, which tend to end up in the most inconvenient places when utilizing the facilities in a rush. After careful consideration, I decided that both of these minor flaws could be avoided with a few minor changes. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IWHaH-3P2ig/YED_tzUjl-I/AAAAAAAAIDo/7bDrTbau98UNxqh62yzFW9hfrHTAWtpmQCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/P1020015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1936" data-original-width="2048" height="604" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IWHaH-3P2ig/YED_tzUjl-I/AAAAAAAAIDo/7bDrTbau98UNxqh62yzFW9hfrHTAWtpmQCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h604/P1020015.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p>This was my first ever Sew House 7 pattern, and any flaunt with a new pattern company is a bit risky. However, I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the large format files were made for printing on a 36 inches wide printer rather than the usual 50 inches or so. The printers I have access to are 44 inches wide, so this worked out well.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PiUC81wPwXs/YED_tstQFjI/AAAAAAAAIDc/Lw9BAS1THNIlmQZ9lGsfhfqpEkwt1EDxACPcBGAYYCw/s2048/P1020014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1279" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PiUC81wPwXs/YED_tstQFjI/AAAAAAAAIDc/Lw9BAS1THNIlmQZ9lGsfhfqpEkwt1EDxACPcBGAYYCw/w400-h640/P1020014.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>The instructions, for the most part, were very clear and a joy to follow. The only bit of confusion I encountered was in the changing seam allowances, and there was one point where I seriously could not figure out from the instructions what the seam allowance was. However I persevered in wildly guessing and it seemed to all work out fine in the end. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bcMQbIzCa90/YED_uT1SVwI/AAAAAAAAIDg/tkUZFLf2WEoHYKnorLHP-_yUuBTDZR4_wCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/P1020017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1406" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bcMQbIzCa90/YED_uT1SVwI/AAAAAAAAIDg/tkUZFLf2WEoHYKnorLHP-_yUuBTDZR4_wCPcBGAYYCw/w440-h640/P1020017.jpg" width="440" /></a></div><p>I didn't toile, I just sewed up my size via the measurements and made adjustments on the fly. I made the closer fitting view, with pleats in the back. I ended up raising the crotch half an inch and trimming an inch off the top of the bib, but other than that I made no changes. The invisible zipper went in without a hitch. The method of sewing the waistband and facing was very clever and left a very clean finish on the inside. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L2gsC0SZI0U/YED_u6_-tzI/AAAAAAAAIDo/5NSmhISioUUYYo82T2g5Xb5NC2zr2MjwACPcBGAYYCw/s2048/P1020026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1278" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L2gsC0SZI0U/YED_u6_-tzI/AAAAAAAAIDo/5NSmhISioUUYYo82T2g5Xb5NC2zr2MjwACPcBGAYYCw/w400-h640/P1020026.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>I left the front of the straps as intended to keep the clean lines of the front bib, but instead of long ties through belt loops in the back, I sewed buttonholes into the straps and buttons to the inside back of the waistband. This makes the straps somewhat adjustable without the use of ties or other hardware. I don't need to unbutton a strap to get the overalls in and out, so this works out very well. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FQAKSVo1EHo/YED_tBwseqI/AAAAAAAAIDY/8E-ZOr5lQlEaXJOIZ7lO-DQI2jROI2NRgCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/P1020010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1205" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FQAKSVo1EHo/YED_tBwseqI/AAAAAAAAIDY/8E-ZOr5lQlEaXJOIZ7lO-DQI2jROI2NRgCPcBGAYYCw/w376-h640/P1020010.jpg" width="376" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-htqMLoaXhek/YED_tUGyyeI/AAAAAAAAIDY/ymYwxCzgsdwGojPyD20yFm70Za4fpEc_QCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/P1020013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1324" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-htqMLoaXhek/YED_tUGyyeI/AAAAAAAAIDY/ymYwxCzgsdwGojPyD20yFm70Za4fpEc_QCPcBGAYYCw/w414-h640/P1020013.jpg" width="414" /></a></div><p>To manage the extra ease that the pattern manages with the ties, I made side straps that cinch with d-rings. This generally works well, but it made slightly more awkward than it should be in that I was lazy and used the left over straps for the cinching, and I didn't have any D-rings smaller than 1 inch. Therefore the D-rings tend to twist annoying when you cinch them. I may at some point re-sew them with either smaller D-rings or wider straps, which would solve the problem. </p><p>My fabric is a very drapey linen-viscose noil by Telio. Since I was going for a lighter, more flowy jumpsuit look, I think this achieved that look and feel, although I think I'd also really enjoy the burnside bibs in a slightly beefier fabric, perhaps a light denim or heavy linen. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qo3WyWVsz2M/YED_umBj7JI/AAAAAAAAIDk/9I2I8qEYOC8IatTiITmGBbxpoEIEunBtACPcBGAYYCw/s2048/P1020024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1374" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qo3WyWVsz2M/YED_umBj7JI/AAAAAAAAIDk/9I2I8qEYOC8IatTiITmGBbxpoEIEunBtACPcBGAYYCw/w430-h640/P1020024.jpg" width="430" /></a></div><p>I'm wearing them here with a fushia linen Liesl Classic Shirt, but I'm going to be enjoying trying them out with all sorts of tops in my wardrobe, which is part of the fun of overalls! I definitely think there will be more Burnside Bibs in my sewing future, it was a quick and satisfying sew. </p>dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-79013806842750194642020-11-29T19:16:00.001-05:002020-11-29T19:16:26.686-05:00Closet Core Patterns Elodie Dress<p> I made an <a href="https://store.closetcorepatterns.com/products/elodie-wrap-dress-pattern">Elodie Dress by Closet Core Patterns</a>!</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YRm6ydT7u3k/X8Q3G-LaL6I/AAAAAAAAH9E/z2_hy_fWE2ErLM22COI7-6XxyMfD3lrFwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1500/497A0296.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YRm6ydT7u3k/X8Q3G-LaL6I/AAAAAAAAH9E/z2_hy_fWE2ErLM22COI7-6XxyMfD3lrFwCLcBGAsYHQ/w426-h640/497A0296.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>I made it in bright blue 7 oz linen from <a href="https://fabrics-store.com/">The Fabrics-store.com</a>. I just love how the heavier linen falls in this dress, it is swooshy and fun to wear. <p></p><p>Constructions and fit-wise, there isn't much to say, it all went smoothly, as usual with Closet Core patterns and my body. I made the 0-20 draft and graded to my measurements (14 bust and 18 waist, maybe, did not grade the hips due to the flowy skirt), and it fits beautifully! I have not had much luck with wrap dresses and tops even though I have made many of them, but this one fits me perfectly, and the front wrap portion stays closed on me. </p><p>So here are a few more fun pictures. Make and enjoy!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AzI11VhwMtc/X8Q3HcjxZkI/AAAAAAAAH98/vs2EfQnnhHwFkCMaS2pQ5pc6XXJPb28AgCPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0299.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AzI11VhwMtc/X8Q3HcjxZkI/AAAAAAAAH98/vs2EfQnnhHwFkCMaS2pQ5pc6XXJPb28AgCPcBGAYYCw/w426-h640/497A0299.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bjxyBfzPEbs/X8Q3JRiIgLI/AAAAAAAAH9w/9Nq225K-O-MgjWMxHT4rKMx09CaZ_KgxwCPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0306.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1049" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bjxyBfzPEbs/X8Q3JRiIgLI/AAAAAAAAH9w/9Nq225K-O-MgjWMxHT4rKMx09CaZ_KgxwCPcBGAYYCw/w448-h640/497A0306.jpg" width="448" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wr-rdcaCEDw/X8Q3KqLnquI/AAAAAAAAH98/kWgKOaAQxiA-IvoVmqCwHisRH2y0GycNgCPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0313.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1086" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wr-rdcaCEDw/X8Q3KqLnquI/AAAAAAAAH98/kWgKOaAQxiA-IvoVmqCwHisRH2y0GycNgCPcBGAYYCw/w464-h640/497A0313.jpg" width="464" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TPvC1vX69Pk/X8Q3IWMDY1I/AAAAAAAAH98/-FX4lX3jrG8lJBRL8_pj459XeCWcm1BGgCPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0303.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1051" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TPvC1vX69Pk/X8Q3IWMDY1I/AAAAAAAAH98/-FX4lX3jrG8lJBRL8_pj459XeCWcm1BGgCPcBGAYYCw/w448-h640/497A0303.jpg" width="448" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p>dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-28686095924956766122020-11-24T20:09:00.001-05:002020-11-24T20:09:17.910-05:00Winter Running Clothes: Greenstyle Pacific Pullover, Jalie Marie-Claude, and Helen's Closet Avery Leggings<p>Exercising during a pandemic continues to be a challenge for me. </p><p>My gym is now open, but has such limited hours, you have to sign up in advance, and you must wear a mask and social distance. I just can't see doing an intense HIIT workout on a spin bike wearing a mask... I'm breathless just thinking about it. Further, the thought of being indoors in AC with potential symptomless virus carriers exchanging molecules of air... icky. </p><p>I am eternally jealous of everyone who has the funds and space for a home gym! I have managed to secure a few random dumbells by watching Dick's Sporting Goods websites and driving hours out of my way, but it is a far cry from satisfying my workout needs. </p><p>So... back to running. Theoretically, one can run in any weather, at any time. I happen to live right across the street from a lovely asphalt paved 2.5 mile loop (with additional connected trails for longer runs and variation. It even has some winter maintenance, which should make it viable even if it snows feet at a time. </p><p>However, one needs the proper gear... which has enabled a flurry of sewing!</p><p>The quarter-zip top is by far my preference for running, or any sweaty sport. That little bit of speedy ventilation over the chest makes such a big difference. Years ago I bought a pattern for such a top, one of the few on the market, but the muslin I made showed fit problems and the instructions for the front zip ended in a hot mess. I still have this pattern and perhaps should go back to it at some point... but no time for that right now. </p><p>Instead I opted for the <a href="https://greenstylecreations.com/collections/womens-patterns/products/pacific-pullover-pdf-sewing-pattern-xxs-3xl">Greenstyle Pacific Pullover</a>... which has a really well done sew along by Sharon at <a href="https://sweetmamalife.com/2019/04/pacific-pullover-sew-along-day-1-lets.html">sweetmamalife.com,</a> including video instructions. LOVE <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54Gj8PDxypc">this video</a> for installing the zip on the collar variation, it has taken this skill from insurmountable to totally doable. I also love pattern companies that post pictures of LOTS of tester garments... this really helps me to see how well the the pattern works for different bodies and different skill levels. I had a really good feeling about the front zip option since so many testers, some of them obviously newer to sewing, had excellent results. </p><p>I was so confident that I jumped right in with a Polartech power wool fabric that got at a great deal on Etsy from <a href="http://twoontwooff.blogspot.com/">Two on Two off</a> that I've been hoarding for years. I graded by my measurements (wider at the waist and hips) and it was perfect. The front zip went in perfectly, don't think I even pulled out a seam ripper. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JZUV9rwAuf0/X72c7s74QkI/AAAAAAAAH6c/OpE7xkUQl14exSmSapG8PLfSOT-zKA88ACPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0265.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1031" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JZUV9rwAuf0/X72c7s74QkI/AAAAAAAAH6c/OpE7xkUQl14exSmSapG8PLfSOT-zKA88ACPcBGAYYCw/w440-h640/497A0265.jpg" width="440" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7tJZAAA5dr8/X72c8FX9KPI/AAAAAAAAH8Q/yXwxIULvKakO1FEGJfZI4AxMj05MCAVugCPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0267.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7tJZAAA5dr8/X72c8FX9KPI/AAAAAAAAH8Q/yXwxIULvKakO1FEGJfZI4AxMj05MCAVugCPcBGAYYCw/w426-h640/497A0267.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Changes: I added light knit interfacing to the collar... both sides! It seemed too floppy without it. However the instructions for adding twill tape or grosgrain ribbon to the collar give a beautiful finish, I really love this. <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QgzSw8eU-NQ/X72c8h2L6YI/AAAAAAAAH8k/NoEoPIQXQ3UO_8c9P40WLhxom3Tjp28AACPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0269.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1118" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QgzSw8eU-NQ/X72c8h2L6YI/AAAAAAAAH8k/NoEoPIQXQ3UO_8c9P40WLhxom3Tjp28AACPcBGAYYCw/w478-h640/497A0269.jpg" width="478" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fb1Bw03Ey4Q/X72dEF20gnI/AAAAAAAAH8c/Pd8bvQvn8qA-xSpX85ZqwxhD-p0e_ESaQCPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0326.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1118" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fb1Bw03Ey4Q/X72dEF20gnI/AAAAAAAAH8c/Pd8bvQvn8qA-xSpX85ZqwxhD-p0e_ESaQCPcBGAYYCw/w478-h640/497A0326.jpg" width="478" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">I was greedy and made both the kangaroo and panel pockets, and I think I got away with it. I love the technique for the kangaroo pocket... but I might skip it for future running tops since I don't need the extra padding in front. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p4-nl4mfKR8/X72dFYmQ_SI/AAAAAAAAH8Q/j3R4tvdFxWoIB3RTItjaZa1MfiSU8TaIgCPcBGAYYCw/s1920/497A0328.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="1920" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p4-nl4mfKR8/X72dFYmQ_SI/AAAAAAAAH8Q/j3R4tvdFxWoIB3RTItjaZa1MfiSU8TaIgCPcBGAYYCw/s320/497A0328.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">The thumbhole cuffs worked soooooo beautifully in this fabric.</span></div></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dFkxIIQGiSQ/X72dEnoAUXI/AAAAAAAAH8M/p4VjYyTTb7k7mAPJglPhLoeEdq_xwrFdACPcBGAYYCw/s1888/497A0327.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1888" height="508" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dFkxIIQGiSQ/X72dEnoAUXI/AAAAAAAAH8M/p4VjYyTTb7k7mAPJglPhLoeEdq_xwrFdACPcBGAYYCw/w640-h508/497A0327.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />Later, after running in it, I belatedly added a back zip pocket... which is my preference for carrying anything (phone, flashlight, etc) since it helps to balance the weight. The pocket is similar to making a welt pocket (usually I use silk organza for the opening so that I can see my markings underneath) then you sew in an exposed zip. I just sewed a rectangle of fabric over the zip area to enclose the pocket. <div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sku5yWV927E/X72dF1YUByI/AAAAAAAAH8U/PymxltMBc0cQApIJY04y0-pPD_rJUGvgwCPcBGAYYCw/s1920/497A0329.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="1920" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sku5yWV927E/X72dF1YUByI/AAAAAAAAH8U/PymxltMBc0cQApIJY04y0-pPD_rJUGvgwCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h426/497A0329.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ej9na2xGJ4s/X72dGfEst3I/AAAAAAAAH8k/NO_u1mWLfW4y7R3u8-pBz7Nk85S7RNXiwCPcBGAYYCw/s1920/497A0331.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="1920" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ej9na2xGJ4s/X72dGfEst3I/AAAAAAAAH8k/NO_u1mWLfW4y7R3u8-pBz7Nk85S7RNXiwCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h426/497A0331.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>Love this top! It is super light weight, but actually surprisingly warm for its weight. </div><div><br /></div><div>The next one I made was a hoodie running top. I've always wanted a hoodie running top, but I've never purchased one since it seems sort of impractical and they tend to be expensive. </div><div><br /></div><div>I decided to use the hood from the Jalie Marie Claude on the Greenstyle Pacific Pullover. The Marie-Claude hood looked like a more fitted hood. I used the center front marking as a guide to skip the overlap, and it seemed to fit pretty well. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eosBfLJOo8s/X72c2dao0aI/AAAAAAAAH8k/61vRsyH_s5wnpe73MnQAEMs2uqHjItZrgCPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0227.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1024" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eosBfLJOo8s/X72c2dao0aI/AAAAAAAAH8k/61vRsyH_s5wnpe73MnQAEMs2uqHjItZrgCPcBGAYYCw/w438-h640/497A0227.jpg" width="438" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">After running with it, it wouldn't stay in place so I added a drawcord, which fixes the problem. I also did the 3/4 zip, thumbhole cuffs, and a back zip pocket (of my own devising). </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CK-bNnyFsvs/X72c2gojZpI/AAAAAAAAH8Y/zHen6fE5Jpw_8ALN5-t4FSZU0wgB3OdZgCPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0232.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="975" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CK-bNnyFsvs/X72c2gojZpI/AAAAAAAAH8Y/zHen6fE5Jpw_8ALN5-t4FSZU0wgB3OdZgCPcBGAYYCw/w416-h640/497A0232.jpg" width="416" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>This knit is a dry-flex fabric from thefabricfairy.com and I LOOOOOVE it, it is just like one of my old RTW running tops from Moving Comfort. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I3MZ3_Pr-cM/X72c20sjcxI/AAAAAAAAH8Q/obRzHw7J2yYnGb5rzUOJrkCCFTU8dkk-ACPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0236.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I3MZ3_Pr-cM/X72c20sjcxI/AAAAAAAAH8Q/obRzHw7J2yYnGb5rzUOJrkCCFTU8dkk-ACPcBGAYYCw/w426-h640/497A0236.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XO866xMUK80/X72c3fua5SI/AAAAAAAAH8M/0VJ0vGCWOW8CRrvtiFDoWY_GEYdTL9SYQCPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0240.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1030" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XO866xMUK80/X72c3fua5SI/AAAAAAAAH8M/0VJ0vGCWOW8CRrvtiFDoWY_GEYdTL9SYQCPcBGAYYCw/w440-h640/497A0240.jpg" width="440" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Add caption<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />I made the pony-tail hole in the hood, just to try it out. It is growing on me! If you are making the Jalie hood... it is a two layer center panel, and the instructions have you use the two panels to make the ponytail holder seamless. Instead I used the two center panels to enclose the seams on the hood, then made the ponytail holder using the largest buttonhole my machine was capable of. <div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LkV9G279C5I/X72c4Ch0R6I/AAAAAAAAH8c/0Wb5L3uviHM-HW7Y3Cj9EO9rGrOZycF-ACPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0242.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LkV9G279C5I/X72c4Ch0R6I/AAAAAAAAH8c/0Wb5L3uviHM-HW7Y3Cj9EO9rGrOZycF-ACPcBGAYYCw/w426-h640/497A0242.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>Variation #3.... Full on <a href="https://jalie.com/jalie3667-marie-claude-raglan-pullovers">Jalie Marie-Claude</a> in <a href="https://www.therainshed.com/shop/Fabrics/WARM-FABRICS/Polartec-Power-Stretch/p/PowerStretch-Wool---Storm-Grey-x21726826.htm">Wool Powerstretch Fleece from TheRainshed</a>.</div><div>When I saw this wool stretch fleece I hit BUY in a hurry. I just love natural fibers, and technical natural fibers really interest me. This wool is incredibly stretchy and cozy, I just love it. I have to say that when I prewashed it, the surface got sort of pill-y... not exactly pills, but it looks like bits of the fleece have adhered to the outside. This doesn't affect the performance, but it does marr the surface a bit. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YyV5a0_QtS0/X72c-u2BjZI/AAAAAAAAH8g/eGMevqDcqhcA4VROaeQIgQF74YVOMZw0QCPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0279.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YyV5a0_QtS0/X72c-u2BjZI/AAAAAAAAH8g/eGMevqDcqhcA4VROaeQIgQF74YVOMZw0QCPcBGAYYCw/w426-h640/497A0279.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>This hoody is WARM, so warm that I have yet to complete a run in it. However it is great for convincing myself to go out on a cold dark run (I run during the week at 5:30am, which is pitch dark and generally rather cold). And if I use it as a warmup hoody, it is pretty easy to just tie around my waist when I get too warm. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q8OhLcr3unA/X72c_Ff8xPI/AAAAAAAAH8Y/l3a8LbHKJrQT4VgVsIytHLkMbLPQ-UwNwCPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0281.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1207" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q8OhLcr3unA/X72c_Ff8xPI/AAAAAAAAH8Y/l3a8LbHKJrQT4VgVsIytHLkMbLPQ-UwNwCPcBGAYYCw/w516-h640/497A0281.jpg" width="516" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">In terms of fit, I cut and sewed my measurements, and it worked out mostly fine! If I was making this and wanted a truly form fitting fit, I would probably size down. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SGQh4pzfJkE/X72c9FGb8ZI/AAAAAAAAH8k/M8OQCio-JCQyKqWY3uc-pMdK45tCnN8igCPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0271.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1034" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SGQh4pzfJkE/X72c9FGb8ZI/AAAAAAAAH8k/M8OQCio-JCQyKqWY3uc-pMdK45tCnN8igCPcBGAYYCw/w442-h640/497A0271.jpg" width="442" /></a></div><div><br /></div>I added the front 3/4 zip from the Greenstyle Pacific Pullover, and used their instructions for inserting the zipper into the hood. I also added handwarmer pockets, sewn like the pockets on the <a href="https://shop.truebias.com/product/mini-nova-jumpsuit">Mini Nova from True Bias</a>... since I've recently sewn that pattern. It's a sideseam pattern pocket that is one-layer, rather than two, to reduce bulk. </div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wGG9QrUlPlE/X72c9mYp89I/AAAAAAAAH8c/8s2W_S2Zfz0HzO6SBlqjOlvf2_e5vTV4QCPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0273.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1046" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wGG9QrUlPlE/X72c9mYp89I/AAAAAAAAH8c/8s2W_S2Zfz0HzO6SBlqjOlvf2_e5vTV4QCPcBGAYYCw/w446-h640/497A0273.jpg" width="446" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fvRCSrgBKso/X72c-JG4bQI/AAAAAAAAH8U/1LyD3zWtnCURRQW7ri3K47vnQCQ7iQ6QgCPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0277.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fvRCSrgBKso/X72c-JG4bQI/AAAAAAAAH8U/1LyD3zWtnCURRQW7ri3K47vnQCQ7iQ6QgCPcBGAYYCw/w426-h640/497A0277.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Here's my usual back zip pocket, made the same way as the previous pullover. The inside is continuous fleece, since the rectangle of the pocket is installed with the fleece on the inside. </div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vO8EbfCTOsE/X72dCAC53EI/AAAAAAAAH8Y/-bZmSjoXDTcPpb9F5T_dHobahy1nXSMmACPcBGAYYCw/s1920/497A0320.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1338" data-original-width="1920" height="446" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vO8EbfCTOsE/X72dCAC53EI/AAAAAAAAH8Y/-bZmSjoXDTcPpb9F5T_dHobahy1nXSMmACPcBGAYYCw/w640-h446/497A0320.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The thumbhole instructions on the Jalie use a single-layer method, which was perfect for the fleece. i might have deliberately installed these to cover more of my hand above the thumb, since the sleeve are rather long and help enable my need to keep my hands warm without actually carrying gloves. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6dicUxKsuzw/X72dCgve02I/AAAAAAAAH8c/e3f_L2cP4C4rRoFVW9AvvstJXIlfCkDHACPcBGAYYCw/s1920/497A0321.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1470" data-original-width="1920" height="490" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6dicUxKsuzw/X72dCgve02I/AAAAAAAAH8c/e3f_L2cP4C4rRoFVW9AvvstJXIlfCkDHACPcBGAYYCw/w640-h490/497A0321.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I once again used a drawsting to cinch the cord. I put in a double grommet, so that I could make a "hands free" hood cinch that I've noticed on RTW hoods. The other end of the elastic cord is sewed into the seams, so that when you pull the cord through the toggle there isn't any loose end hanging around. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bOw9FInso6I/X72dDALJSOI/AAAAAAAAH8c/4Yy4E_Fl_1k-iaNX9ZBwiTSKQhArrosvQCPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0323.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bOw9FInso6I/X72dDALJSOI/AAAAAAAAH8c/4Yy4E_Fl_1k-iaNX9ZBwiTSKQhArrosvQCPcBGAYYCw/w426-h640/497A0323.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pEVAMmJ6c8k/X72dD9Pg6bI/AAAAAAAAH8Y/hwPbdpcyvzcYwTkb2VZ1qIMWikWvXj79ACPcBGAYYCw/s1920/497A0324.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="1920" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pEVAMmJ6c8k/X72dD9Pg6bI/AAAAAAAAH8Y/hwPbdpcyvzcYwTkb2VZ1qIMWikWvXj79ACPcBGAYYCw/w640-h426/497A0324.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Top #4 is a windproof vest! I've always wanted a windproof vest. </div><br /><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mXnEbI-KgC4/X72c4cD-F3I/AAAAAAAAH8g/EP8vXnkhi9gJ1ffvgH4JvLb02ts1O_j2gCPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0247.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1128" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mXnEbI-KgC4/X72c4cD-F3I/AAAAAAAAH8g/EP8vXnkhi9gJ1ffvgH4JvLb02ts1O_j2gCPcBGAYYCw/w482-h640/497A0247.jpg" width="482" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therainshed.com/shop/Fabrics/WARM-FABRICS/Polartec-Power-Stretch/p/Stretch-Hardface-Wind-Pro---Orange-x24820217.htm">This fabric</a> was from The Rainshed and was surprisingly stretchy... on the order of 25%.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BovXwygKu8A/X72c7H0OMRI/AAAAAAAAH8Q/Ms8uMt_gGyI6X9s-8D16H0wW-wTRmalAgCPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0260.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1053" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BovXwygKu8A/X72c7H0OMRI/AAAAAAAAH8Q/Ms8uMt_gGyI6X9s-8D16H0wW-wTRmalAgCPcBGAYYCw/w448-h640/497A0260.jpg" width="448" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I made the Greenstyle Pacific Pullover, sleeveless, with a full zip (not an option on the pattern, but not difficult to figure out.)</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_SOi6Uw7N2c/X72c6rQ5brI/AAAAAAAAH8Y/vQa1gkgc5rYw71r_YfKgQSAhz6z6FOETgCPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0259.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1071" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_SOi6Uw7N2c/X72c6rQ5brI/AAAAAAAAH8Y/vQa1gkgc5rYw71r_YfKgQSAhz6z6FOETgCPcBGAYYCw/w458-h640/497A0259.jpg" width="458" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I made some rookie mistakes... separating zip is necessary for this varaint! Then I attempted to tear out the zip, which just tore my fabric. After cutting a new right front panel, I was good to go. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VwzKS_vFiQQ/X72c5_kqJtI/AAAAAAAAH8g/nYGFNFhYmJccv9pzKwsAADGay0Btt5HKACPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0256.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VwzKS_vFiQQ/X72c5_kqJtI/AAAAAAAAH8g/nYGFNFhYmJccv9pzKwsAADGay0Btt5HKACPcBGAYYCw/w426-h640/497A0256.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I made a back zip (used fusible interfacing to make the welt hole and a mesh pocket bag this time). </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yGmqC4hWiUY/X72c5iCGCJI/AAAAAAAAH8Q/uLgfjqRuXwcwIKG32aH3MnmcVwpvD4y9gCPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0252.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1043" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yGmqC4hWiUY/X72c5iCGCJI/AAAAAAAAH8Q/uLgfjqRuXwcwIKG32aH3MnmcVwpvD4y9gCPcBGAYYCw/w444-h640/497A0252.jpg" width="444" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>The only matching zip I had was metal, so I also made a chin guard. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-liLDeounsVM/X72c5MinlOI/AAAAAAAAH8Q/ME6SXwudEhg-WyG5saYoFu5lRtHhhmNswCPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0251.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1086" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-liLDeounsVM/X72c5MinlOI/AAAAAAAAH8Q/ME6SXwudEhg-WyG5saYoFu5lRtHhhmNswCPcBGAYYCw/w464-h640/497A0251.jpg" width="464" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G4uzti0ogVQ/X72dG3jcAEI/AAAAAAAAH8Y/pSnpKOSaRegtT0j5F4xKynBvDniJT1BVQCPcBGAYYCw/s1920/497A0332.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1092" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3zev_Is-P78/X72dHwlhYpI/AAAAAAAAH8c/-cFpCcaODgMcjHeEpzuqdAFubMrvL133ACPcBGAYYCw/w466-h640/497A0336.jpg" width="466" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZlDkRgIC5Ns/X72dIdae6uI/AAAAAAAAH8c/i_AbjdFombEbLkZCCLx20IlVWsaNmwfjACPcBGAYYCw/s1920/497A0338.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1374" data-original-width="1920" height="458" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZlDkRgIC5Ns/X72dIdae6uI/AAAAAAAAH8c/i_AbjdFombEbLkZCCLx20IlVWsaNmwfjACPcBGAYYCw/w640-h458/497A0338.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CocHZQ94R_s/X72dI3iIuqI/AAAAAAAAH8g/IS_8SDM5wBsjhf1eUhce1ZyHtc2j-1GKACPcBGAYYCw/s1920/497A0343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1390" data-original-width="1920" height="464" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CocHZQ94R_s/X72dI3iIuqI/AAAAAAAAH8g/IS_8SDM5wBsjhf1eUhce1ZyHtc2j-1GKACPcBGAYYCw/w640-h464/497A0343.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LpQrkO8lpeM/X72dJeLuNWI/AAAAAAAAH8k/-5zRMk-mYEQqxWYYqe3K1H0lsMAQdaoSwCPcBGAYYCw/s1920/497A0348.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="1920" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LpQrkO8lpeM/X72dJeLuNWI/AAAAAAAAH8k/-5zRMk-mYEQqxWYYqe3K1H0lsMAQdaoSwCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h426/497A0348.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /><p>So just a few other elements were needed for my winter running wardrobe. I needed warm tights, so I made the <a href="https://helensclosetpatterns.com/product/avery-leggings-pdf-pattern/">Avery leggings</a> in <a href="https://www.therainshed.com/shop/Fabrics/WARM-FABRICS/Polartec-Power-Stretch/p/PowerStretch-Wool---Storm-Grey-x21726826.htm">Wool Powerstretch Fleece</a>. I made them a size larger and a bit longer, then ended up taking in the seams on the waistband back to my original waist size. One layer of the waist is powerstretch, the other is regular heavyweight legging supplex, and the elastic is 3/8 inch elastic pulled to provide a bit of support. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wZN3t-CLRhk/X72c_gAZZgI/AAAAAAAAH8U/j_jbKQtcBBMNdwYmK-GnezHT9XTgqP6WACPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0287.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1073" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wZN3t-CLRhk/X72c_gAZZgI/AAAAAAAAH8U/j_jbKQtcBBMNdwYmK-GnezHT9XTgqP6WACPcBGAYYCw/w458-h640/497A0287.jpg" width="458" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I've worn these on two cold runs so far, and they are awesome! No sagging yet. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rIXJ4QUhdew/X72dBuTplSI/AAAAAAAAH8Y/Cif9ENKIO_w0tdSjHHcnbvGFDpcuF2mfgCPcBGAYYCw/s1920/497A0317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="1920" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rIXJ4QUhdew/X72dBuTplSI/AAAAAAAAH8Y/Cif9ENKIO_w0tdSjHHcnbvGFDpcuF2mfgCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h426/497A0317.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Another addition to my wardrobe... another <a href="https://greenstylecreations.com/products/power-sports-bra-in-cup-size-a-h-and-bands-28-46">Greenstyle Powerbra</a>. These are awesome, and what else is one to wear under warm running tops. In a pinch, they look great with high waisted tights. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4WAPQzytdgM/X72c2ZjDIKI/AAAAAAAAH8g/8IW44flyXJMBEb4ZP3zv6j6zNR0MoAEFwCPcBGAYYCw/s1920/497A0216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1258" data-original-width="1920" height="420" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4WAPQzytdgM/X72c2ZjDIKI/AAAAAAAAH8g/8IW44flyXJMBEb4ZP3zv6j6zNR0MoAEFwCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h420/497A0216.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iOLur1THaU8/X72c2X34DNI/AAAAAAAAH8g/xolYyBEKbHQyXp6h1pyIsEGfhDfBQAdswCPcBGAYYCw/s1920/497A0221.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1398" data-original-width="1920" height="466" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iOLur1THaU8/X72c2X34DNI/AAAAAAAAH8g/xolYyBEKbHQyXp6h1pyIsEGfhDfBQAdswCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h466/497A0221.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">And finally... a running headband. <a href="https://www.marymarthamama.com/crafty-cat/fleece-ear-warmer-headband-tutorial/">Free pattern</a>. Mine is wool fleece on one side, and Dry-Flex on the other. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mAuvXOLNk_M/X72dAsfPwyI/AAAAAAAAH8c/spCLzhd2wYsyJ8J-rBle_TCl-vcfLA0WACPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0289.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1185" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mAuvXOLNk_M/X72dAsfPwyI/AAAAAAAAH8c/spCLzhd2wYsyJ8J-rBle_TCl-vcfLA0WACPcBGAYYCw/w504-h640/497A0289.jpg" width="504" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q6icQPxlris/X72dBExAJcI/AAAAAAAAH8g/PR7cKeN_djwFuppJPKcei4lDxK8xWYfUACPcBGAYYCw/s1500/497A0294.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1144" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q6icQPxlris/X72dBExAJcI/AAAAAAAAH8g/PR7cKeN_djwFuppJPKcei4lDxK8xWYfUACPcBGAYYCw/w488-h640/497A0294.jpg" width="488" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p></div></div>dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-10023576621766049652020-06-28T21:37:00.001-04:002020-06-28T21:37:16.759-04:00Strappy sports bras: Greenstyle Sports Power Bra <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Ever since shelter-in place began, my usual spin and lift workouts have been out of the question, so I've gone back to running and yoga. Running is higher impact, and free at-home yoga involves looking at young, sleek youtube yoga instructors wearing the cute clothes of their sponsors. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4q63IRvnjD8/Xvk_sARL-ZI/AAAAAAAAHy0/AYBpAD4Q8TAPOWp2gjrvEjcbgEDqhcmiACPcBGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_7949.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1300" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4q63IRvnjD8/Xvk_sARL-ZI/AAAAAAAAHy0/AYBpAD4Q8TAPOWp2gjrvEjcbgEDqhcmiACPcBGAYYCw/s640/IMG_7949.jpg" width="518" /></a></div>
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All of that had me looking sadly upon the section of my drawers devoted to the ill-fitting sports-bras of another era of my life. Bras are the one area of my wardrobe which I do allow myself to buy, so I did actually attempt to buy one. After spending hours hopelessly attempting to gage fit and style on a computer screen, I finally selected one, paid, and settled down to wait only to get an email from the company-- sorry, out of stock, order cancelled. I took that as a sign that I should just rise to the challenge of making my own. How hard can it be?</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XgtFLZaCUYk/Xvk_xcObiRI/AAAAAAAAHyo/biuQsgeSQjAW3ZPAf-1tnQrPR0ZYUOHuwCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_7981.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1340" data-original-width="1600" height="534" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XgtFLZaCUYk/Xvk_xcObiRI/AAAAAAAAHyo/biuQsgeSQjAW3ZPAf-1tnQrPR0ZYUOHuwCPcBGAYYCw/s640/IMG_7981.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The <a href="https://greenstylecreations.com/products/power-sports-bra-in-cup-size-a-h-and-bands-28-46">Greenstyle Power Sports Bra </a>struck me as the kind of strappy sports bra I was looking for, it has lots of great reviews. Many years ago I made the <a href="http://unlikelynest.blogspot.com/2016/02/scrollwork-lululemon-supplex-running.html">Greenstyle Sundance Jacket</a> and it was a great pattern, I've been meaning to make another in a less flashy print. </div>
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My usual measurements put me at a 36 band F cup, but then I realized it said to measure with a good-fitting sports bra on. Well, I don't have one of those, that's why I'm making the pattern! So I used my tape measure to estimate the kind of compression I wanted, and that put me at a D cup. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WwroD-LCigc/XtQzrCNfVxI/AAAAAAAAHuI/PjE62i3dz4QuLMPRdMPHZilQQRrEVbbQACPcBGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_6780_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WwroD-LCigc/XtQzrCNfVxI/AAAAAAAAHuI/PjE62i3dz4QuLMPRdMPHZilQQRrEVbbQACPcBGAYYCw/s640/IMG_6780_1.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Early version with 2 inch elastic that was far too tight.</td></tr>
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I jumped right in with no muslin, and fortunately the fit on the bust was excellent. The fit on the band, however, was so tight that I couldn't breathe properly! For the 36" band size it has you cut a 30" piece of elastic, which seems rather tight. <span style="text-align: center;">In my elastic it was unbearable. I'm not sure exactly how long my elastic was when I got it right, but it was more like 1-2 inches of negative ease, and I haven't had any problems with the elastic riding up. </span></div>
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I also ended up swapping out the 2" elastic for a standard 1" elastic. I like the look of the 2" elastic, it gives it a sort of longline look, but it cuts into my round belly that starts right under my bust. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XWYcnF49v04/Xvk_w0pA1_I/AAAAAAAAHy8/6VJ5k1mXX8AoiWJV1YC1B34suhslmNyGQCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_7966.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1472" data-original-width="1600" height="588" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XWYcnF49v04/Xvk_w0pA1_I/AAAAAAAAHy8/6VJ5k1mXX8AoiWJV1YC1B34suhslmNyGQCPcBGAYYCw/s640/IMG_7966.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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There is no powermesh or any fancy support fabric in this bra, just clear elastic sewn into the seams. I've probably overthought the issue of support, having read all about different types of power mesh and how you can overlap them in different directions, etc, and that might well be very necessary for some people. However this bra is totally supportive for me, there is almost no unwanted movement while jogging. </div>
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I made a couple construction changes. One is that the instructions have you sew on the band in such a way that it would leave an exposed seam under the bust, and that didn't sound very comfortable. I looked around for another method, and ended up using the method Jalie uses for the <a href="https://jalie.com/jalie4014-coco-sport-bra-sewing-pattern">Coco Sports Bra</a>. I haven't sewn the Coco, but it is next on my sportsbra list. It's hard to describe, but you basically sew the casing to the lining, then sew the elastic to the other side of the the casing. Then you roll the elastic up in the casing until it is covering the seam allowance of the outside fabric and top stitch it down. The Jalie instructions are available in the pattern listing. It worked really well for me, and the inside is seam-free. </div>
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In fact, the inside finish is so clean on this bra that I put the pink one on inside out for these pictures! You can tell because the seam on the band doesn't look totally level, like it does on the right side of the bra, and also you can see the seamed side of the straps.</div>
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Speaking of the straps, that's another area where the instructions didn't work for me. If you are making skinny straps, you can use bra strapping, but I think it looks nice to make covered elastic straps that match my fabric perfectly. They use a method I've seen before, where you stitch the casing wrong sides together with the elastic lined up at the edge. However, I was thrown by the suggestion to use clear elastic (which is not what is shown in the photos in the pattern), and by the fact that a seam allowance is shown. It took me 4 tries to make a good strap, which was super frustrating. I ended up swapping clear elastic for swimwear elastic, and trimming the seam allowance before turning, because leaving it made an ugly, bumpy strap. Next time I'll just follow one of the many tutorials available on the web. </div>
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The other area that didn't work for me was the suggestion to trip 1/4 off of the bottom of the lining. I understand the idea of trying to make the lining a tiny bit smaller so that seam allowances pull to the inside, but cutting it off of the bottom only made the whole thing sort of lumpy. The pink one was my second try, and I didn't cut anything off of my lining and it all lays much flatter. If I was doing a real contrast lining, I think I'd just trim a scant 1/8 off all edges of the lining instead. </div>
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Anyhow, one could say that I ironed out my difficulties with my first run (the gray bray) and in the second try with the pink bra, and it all came together very quickly in a satisfying manner! I'm very pleased to finally have some new sports bras that fit perfectly, provide great support, and fulfill my desire to have cute strappy bras!</div>
dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-53847430866322417112020-06-18T17:25:00.000-04:002020-06-18T17:25:59.547-04:00Euler Bra by Sophie Hines Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
There's nothing like spending 3 months working from home to get one to reconsider the state of one's loungewear. I've never really understood the point of bralettes... but suddenly I found myself gravitating towards my one lonely RTW bralette and longing for more. </div>
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I don't have a good track record with bras, either buying or sewing them. I generally prefer underwires, but I'm super fussy about fit and anything poke-y, bumpy, or rough bothers me. I hate buying bras because they'll feel and look fine in the store, but I'll take them home and won't be able to wear them for more than 45 minutes. I spent ages sewing an underwire bra by Makebra in 2016, including several toiles and many adjustments, and while it is lovely the fit seems fine, it is irritating to wear for long periods of time. I don't even know what would make it better, so I haven't tried again. </div>
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It occurred to me that bralettes are potentially something that I could sew successfully, even in the distracted climate of a stay-home summer. It had to be a pattern that I could easily convert to a cross or racerback, since I have very sloped shoulders and regular straps never stay up. I prefer patterns with a lining or some kind of clean interior finish. Also, I dislike the look of foldover elastic because I can't get past the idea that it looks cheap. What can I say, I'm a tough customer.</div>
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I have wanted to make the Madalynne Barrett, and while I haven't seen anyone do it, it looks like you could cross the straps without much fuss. However when I printed it out, the cups in my size seemed very low volume and the instructions for the front cutout looked rather fussy, I just couldn't see how I would be able to sew that without it turning into a hot mess. </div>
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Next I turned to <a href="https://sophiehines.com/products/euler-bra-sewing-pattern">Sophie Hine's Euler</a>, which appealed to me since a cross back was one of the suggested options and it looked like simple but clean finish. I had passed it by at first since it looked like foldover elastic was involved. Apparently one can use foldover elastic, but she also suggests bra strapping, which is used on some of her samples.</div>
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There aren't a lot of reviews, but the more I looked at her samples and her work, the more I was intrigued. She has a unique style that is feminine but a little sporty which is very different from other companies. And... it was on sale, so I was sold. While I was at it, I also purchased the <a href="https://sophiehines.com/products/axis-tank-downloadable-pdf-sewing-pattern">Axis tank</a>, which seems to be loved by many on instagram, but I haven't sewed it yet.<br />
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I decided I was in between a L and XL, and sewed it up in a ikat print cotton spandex jersey with a thin black jersey lining. I had to cross the front a little more than suggested, and take about an inch off of the bottom outside of the cups. On later versions I make the side band elastic about 1/2 an inch shorter than suggested, and this helps the fit for me. I used 3/8 inch bra strapping for the outside elastic and straps, and 1 inch plush back elastic for the bottom band.<br />
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I skipped the back closure, and just sewed the ends together with a 1/2 inch seam allowance. </div>
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Her method of sewing the cups with a sort of buritto method is very cool and efficient. I also love that this pattern isn't as specific about notions as some bra patterns... you can use many different kinds of elastics or fabrics. Amazingly, her suggestions of strap length and underbust elastic length are spot on for me (If I don't use a back closure, and I cross the back straps). </div>
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I was instantly in love-- and promptly made 4 more. </div>
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The fit is spot on for me. It's definitely a soft bra, but the support is decent for a casual bra. This one is designated as a swim top so that you can see fit pics. I wouldn't take it surfing, but it would be great on a lazy summer day. I made it in scraps from the Pinecrest supplex that I use to make leggings and sports bras, with a lining of a thinner supplex knit. I used Sophie's instructions to make a covered band using the thin supplex and some Dritz non-roll elastic, and this is now my favorite type of band for these, it doesn't curl at all. </div>
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Initially this one had the very cool long-line addition that is the other view of this pattern, and it did look very cool, but it had a tendency to roll up over time. I think longline bras just may not work very well with my shape, which starts getting round right under my bust. So I removed it, and now it is much less irritating. I also removed the back hooks, since they also annoyed me, and the bra was too loose with them, but just cutting them off and sewing it together made the band of this one a touch tight. Perhaps it will stretch out, but if not I may have to add an extra piece of elastic. For this one I used cool gunmetal gray hardware.</div>
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Sophie has a <a href="https://www.britexfabrics.com/blog/post/euler-bralette-tutorial-from-sophie-hines-of-alltheunderwear-sophiehines-com">blog post about making the Euler in lace</a>, so I had to try that out with some lace that has been in my stash for ages. I followed her suggestion to size up since the lace and powernet lining aren't as stretchy as the jersey, and I only lined the side cup as she did in her post. I haven't worn this one yet, but if I like it, I can see more lacey versions in the future. </div>
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This gray stripe version is my favorite, it's hard not to wear it all the time! </div>
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And finally, pink. I'm not really a light pink kind of person, but I added this color of Riley Blake spandex cotton to a recent fabric.com order to make the free shipping minimum because I thought it would be good under light colored summer outfits.<br />
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This one has cool silver metal hardware.</div>
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I'm clearly addicted. It's a quick, non-fussy sew and uses scraps, so instant gratification. These are in high rotation this summer and my underwires are stacking up at the back of my drawer. </div>
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Of course I have plans to make more. I think in future makes I'm going to move the seams to the outside... less pretty, but more comfy. Even though the seams are enclosed they still bug me a bit. I also purchased some 1/2 inch bra strap elastic and hardware which I think is what Sophie uses on some of her cool versions.</div>
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<br />dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-61175709286268088822020-05-04T10:08:00.004-04:002020-05-04T10:10:20.589-04:00Pinstripe Linen Jenny OverallsYes, I have made ANOTHER pair of overalls.<br />
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And they are DIVINE.<br />
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When all this work from home is finished, I am going to wear them to work and not give *#$%^ what anyone thinks. Pinstripes make them work appropriate, no?</div>
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They are <a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/jenny-overalls-pattern-dungarees-pattern?utm_source=Pinterestu0026utm_medium=Social">Jenny Overalls</a> in pinstripe linen. I bought this linen when it went on sale and I had loved using it to make <a href="http://unlikelynest.blogspot.com/2018/09/striped-linen-dress-liesl-and-co-closet.html">this dress</a>, but I had no idea what I was going to do with it. Then came lockdown, and my overall streak, and suddenly I knew EXACTLY what I needed to make. (It was from <a href="http://fabrics-store.com/">Fabrics-store.com</a>, but they don't seem to have it anymore)</div>
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I'm out of overall hardware, so I went with the cute front tie thing I've seen on some other overalls. I just made a couple of rouleaux loops and sewed them into the top seam of the bib. </div>
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The only other thing I did differently was to add a couple of darts to the top of the waistband to try to get it to lay a little flatter against my back. Really I need to just use a curved waistband piece for the back I think. But in this hack version, I added two 1/4 inch darts 6 inches apart on the center back waistband, and did the same for the waistband facing.<br />
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I once again did double side button closures. I'm running low on my stash, so I had to use the ones that say VIP jeanswear on them. I'll just disregard the jeanswear bit.<br />
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So that's about all I have to say about these. Don't be surprised if the next thing I make is more overalls!dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-39272135601631935812020-04-20T12:51:00.000-04:002020-04-20T12:53:37.381-04:00Goldenrod Yellow Denim Jenny OverallsOveralls are my work-at-home wear of choice. Comfy for endless online meetings and presentable in a casual setting, my <a href="http://unlikelynest.blogspot.com/2018/10/wheres-hoedown-closet-case-jenny.html">linen</a>, <a href="http://unlikelynest.blogspot.com/2020/01/striped-jenny-overalls.html">striped</a>, and <a href="http://unlikelynest.blogspot.com/2020/02/classic-comfy-overalls-cone-mills-denim.html">denim</a> Jenny's have been in constant rotation.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YSPVAYze16g/Xp3OPbuEKLI/AAAAAAAAHnU/tJWkH0vJ7DIwLebDUZ4n6ghKpFcu_2BWACEwYBhgLKs4DAL1Ocqz2zkdCNP-3yl4Daq2H_8vLyCxNRJhnXRH_g0bKTGfQ_I-4x3jfMrl9Twkjua2g0o_A9_iPN6qcJoEoRYFYEf35WKpzc52RVaKgRCZ6W_oDFHNfaIkRjLMvPJDIegYhD9yvGXsaoZd5CzkjKDcrgqnqD0aSUJQpG3jBYJELw1YmvatNxgoFAMH15JCvLV4QamVpIdhh9Dx8uNwC6X_b-y79nbdiwp3OdgSOHPUIt1T_0xR745HVmnsarAKMz5-fgmkXSjO4urtFfQywsnUbWSFDF-ka7h8UVzpFXV26JZAECRpklhwzNnf55a2rlJtTW9xwpKbcc9BibPGkEJNKBUgpxdiRna_zS-yEuJNZBIKliGYpS7VIxZ7FnpPcWO0lIqPFa-EUv27eg20XydcF1EXW5dgaKhTeHRFtLG7n5xCc6n8rJCnmMNTKceFE7hAHlkZOYBYHJrYZH3l2_Td633HNJrZ1zJjxYWtWwFbitPqqF_aZh1ZLYDAajixx2XoDQKYsc4fcXbDMuYN9Szsj5LkQWkGKXZ4DbCyffry8f7wgVXukFJ4ZB4kZyczR2T-XSZSTtVcIP8xp9uRxyLn29Yg1sH1pL7MyvQhDMKGk9_QF/s1600/IMG_7589.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="757" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YSPVAYze16g/Xp3OPbuEKLI/AAAAAAAAHnU/tJWkH0vJ7DIwLebDUZ4n6ghKpFcu_2BWACEwYBhgLKs4DAL1Ocqz2zkdCNP-3yl4Daq2H_8vLyCxNRJhnXRH_g0bKTGfQ_I-4x3jfMrl9Twkjua2g0o_A9_iPN6qcJoEoRYFYEf35WKpzc52RVaKgRCZ6W_oDFHNfaIkRjLMvPJDIegYhD9yvGXsaoZd5CzkjKDcrgqnqD0aSUJQpG3jBYJELw1YmvatNxgoFAMH15JCvLV4QamVpIdhh9Dx8uNwC6X_b-y79nbdiwp3OdgSOHPUIt1T_0xR745HVmnsarAKMz5-fgmkXSjO4urtFfQywsnUbWSFDF-ka7h8UVzpFXV26JZAECRpklhwzNnf55a2rlJtTW9xwpKbcc9BibPGkEJNKBUgpxdiRna_zS-yEuJNZBIKliGYpS7VIxZ7FnpPcWO0lIqPFa-EUv27eg20XydcF1EXW5dgaKhTeHRFtLG7n5xCc6n8rJCnmMNTKceFE7hAHlkZOYBYHJrYZH3l2_Td633HNJrZ1zJjxYWtWwFbitPqqF_aZh1ZLYDAajixx2XoDQKYsc4fcXbDMuYN9Szsj5LkQWkGKXZ4DbCyffry8f7wgVXukFJ4ZB4kZyczR2T-XSZSTtVcIP8xp9uRxyLn29Yg1sH1pL7MyvQhDMKGk9_QF/s640/IMG_7589.jpg" width="403" /></a></div>
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Seeing everyone putting their sewing skills to use as part of the civic response makes me feel slightly guilty for engaging in selfish sewing. However, I'm fortunate to be in a situation where our jobs and schools can continue online, so I'm busier than ever trying to be a full time working and homeschooling mom. Therefore I need sewing to maintain my sanity, which is definitely being put to the test!<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3UMJ_ToGtKw/Xp3Pf3Em0OI/AAAAAAAAHns/SNgj7KeAPTgyobGnsDBYEUvK3sH_c9OBgCEwYBhgLKs4DAL1OcqwZzmZplQD4e6yyy3aVhql5SfUqGujty0WIszjRFJ2DJcrb_e3hONDo5CmDSJS14xf1o1YThKDKoTOJcy8o4HlHXW5rXGxhCRrjldUYp1KwK1GvLR2miywRtzPkWCPscbfxW_EGrEC5eCTR1f8roGdHA_1N53A35XcQXWsIOyr8s3cPRvQwwlzYpq_wwspd_lzAhfQSMYhHgxgK2Qd_q8wqFX9ak4o5GXbbmIDRSvWOfYh_SJ2NqcPKJvWzWjrKmM98A1XVWJQs-5Ztfo1bh1lYyok3Mw4WQGSv0qC4Z4t-DhfoxJf8GudLysFU72ah-fkvGE6S3p9imU6UBoTJ49cRCr5Kz_0H6O2dRLYhvzVuqIBxwplGDgb5bxss72_RpYnjEmtHNw0s8M9XoiJl6OjBPIPvFS2p2VSyA1XDv0PVB17YmfhOQt2wQJNTeUlmIoFEQBFZ9LS3mytIAC-k31MFRgrj3XtDvVNZ7HqsprssEfpW0NLxXBGX7A4dla1wx5J4NUFx1EB8awZJw337D3F7AfI-WX3EdF4ddh6I6H4o02Tq3tNp9hyRMNk4dokWiz_fgoW0A36ySWdbEUGJgcNqI6fPD4ei1twsMMqk9_QF/s1600/D3B1620B-A19A-4C3D-881D-BD00DF4A019B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3UMJ_ToGtKw/Xp3Pf3Em0OI/AAAAAAAAHns/SNgj7KeAPTgyobGnsDBYEUvK3sH_c9OBgCEwYBhgLKs4DAL1OcqwZzmZplQD4e6yyy3aVhql5SfUqGujty0WIszjRFJ2DJcrb_e3hONDo5CmDSJS14xf1o1YThKDKoTOJcy8o4HlHXW5rXGxhCRrjldUYp1KwK1GvLR2miywRtzPkWCPscbfxW_EGrEC5eCTR1f8roGdHA_1N53A35XcQXWsIOyr8s3cPRvQwwlzYpq_wwspd_lzAhfQSMYhHgxgK2Qd_q8wqFX9ak4o5GXbbmIDRSvWOfYh_SJ2NqcPKJvWzWjrKmM98A1XVWJQs-5Ztfo1bh1lYyok3Mw4WQGSv0qC4Z4t-DhfoxJf8GudLysFU72ah-fkvGE6S3p9imU6UBoTJ49cRCr5Kz_0H6O2dRLYhvzVuqIBxwplGDgb5bxss72_RpYnjEmtHNw0s8M9XoiJl6OjBPIPvFS2p2VSyA1XDv0PVB17YmfhOQt2wQJNTeUlmIoFEQBFZ9LS3mytIAC-k31MFRgrj3XtDvVNZ7HqsprssEfpW0NLxXBGX7A4dla1wx5J4NUFx1EB8awZJw337D3F7AfI-WX3EdF4ddh6I6H4o02Tq3tNp9hyRMNk4dokWiz_fgoW0A36ySWdbEUGJgcNqI6fPD4ei1twsMMqk9_QF/s640/D3B1620B-A19A-4C3D-881D-BD00DF4A019B.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I've been curious about Cone Mills Loomstate denim, so I looked to see what <a href="https://threadbarefabrics.com/">Threadbare fabrics</a> had and immediately fell in love with <a href="https://threadbarefabrics.com/products/9-75-oz-cone-mills-loomstate-denim-in-goldenrod-1-2-yard">Goldenrod</a>. The fabric came at LIGHTENING fast speed! Which made me very happy, and I threw it into the wash immediately upon arrival. I've read about the theories of shaping unsanforized denim to your body, but that isn't really what I'm interested in right now, so I washed and dried it 3 times to make sure there would be no shrinkage in the finished overalls. It washed up to a lovely denim-y texture with a surprising amount of mechanical stretch for a non-stretch denim.<br />
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I used my altered <a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/jenny-overalls-pattern-dungarees-pattern">Jenny Overalls pattern (Closet Case Patterns) </a>that has tapered legs and side buttons. Since this was a non-stretch fabric, I went with the original Jenny overall pocket bags rather than the pocket stay that I had drafted. On my last pair of Jenny's that I made in stretch Cone Mills denim, I did the french seam backwards, and I'm reminded of it every time I stick my hands in my pockets and feel the seam. This time I nearly did the same thing, but I realized it before sewing the second seam and ripped and fixed it. French seaming pockets is particularly confusing because you want the right side of the fabric on the inside of the garment AND you also want the part of the french seam that is usually on the inside of the garment, on the inside of the garment.<br />
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For the pocket bags and facings I used a cotton fabric that I've had in my stash for many years. It is a fun fabric with great colors, but I haven't been able to envision wearing it as a shirt or dress... but I decided that it might make a great lining since the purple seemed to be a lovely contrast with the yellow.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rFfrNwCT2TE/Xp3ORETS2uI/AAAAAAAAHng/ftJcmLHAVvEDGGayFrenWLdvbGBvGtUsQCEwYBhgLKs4DAL1Ocqx9lFzLM1KyBajBjNtouMjdZkPbm_8L8k_dNY0F3OY8WTaHOzIvABGvDvAaK-_qYsKVp2WRolypeS5BTyJdtmBjYFGXnJLvtcAI-wcXedYg09e3DhZjmpXYJxDGNiuUxIVZf2mkJVO7mARTc39uylgeyNeXKmMVlMrh7pHtZUhmANzJWgNu969UW-TqArxSz0kp6GtqMZy5pcweiMV5dOnVeQzt8l8jiOfwF6ryxYKiW9p1ocvQSfEBy3uwvefqBTvU4mz29foW6Njn9kmJB6-8Dpr9wkBbPQVjpSKzfnUilN9FBypyuowyI1bZ95f0xM_MBNTIhNXk6AiuqgH9stoT2bpP0HvmuTdWh63b_TOQMCmoN_qFVA-aND0EkDrhRaSmGRwnnnsdPYyxcPwpzs7lG6PUf3KPHXV8z19sMC_qyS4pQhjL6rYEZALSjeF1C_RiIicnymEI5wWYG4bnwsh8lODk21ulmwqOKmPbqIBZ_AzZEedRYF2tAS-1QUDByIkRABHw2ZujaB2toTEyijLVnfIf5z9y81FhvbBrv92eIrxlifrhyKPmVIDUs1VYdwUp5liNPRT_ckeASGGap8URgU9-6mrNIkENMJym9_QF/s1600/IMG_7610.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="597" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rFfrNwCT2TE/Xp3ORETS2uI/AAAAAAAAHng/ftJcmLHAVvEDGGayFrenWLdvbGBvGtUsQCEwYBhgLKs4DAL1Ocqx9lFzLM1KyBajBjNtouMjdZkPbm_8L8k_dNY0F3OY8WTaHOzIvABGvDvAaK-_qYsKVp2WRolypeS5BTyJdtmBjYFGXnJLvtcAI-wcXedYg09e3DhZjmpXYJxDGNiuUxIVZf2mkJVO7mARTc39uylgeyNeXKmMVlMrh7pHtZUhmANzJWgNu969UW-TqArxSz0kp6GtqMZy5pcweiMV5dOnVeQzt8l8jiOfwF6ryxYKiW9p1ocvQSfEBy3uwvefqBTvU4mz29foW6Njn9kmJB6-8Dpr9wkBbPQVjpSKzfnUilN9FBypyuowyI1bZ95f0xM_MBNTIhNXk6AiuqgH9stoT2bpP0HvmuTdWh63b_TOQMCmoN_qFVA-aND0EkDrhRaSmGRwnnnsdPYyxcPwpzs7lG6PUf3KPHXV8z19sMC_qyS4pQhjL6rYEZALSjeF1C_RiIicnymEI5wWYG4bnwsh8lODk21ulmwqOKmPbqIBZ_AzZEedRYF2tAS-1QUDByIkRABHw2ZujaB2toTEyijLVnfIf5z9y81FhvbBrv92eIrxlifrhyKPmVIDUs1VYdwUp5liNPRT_ckeASGGap8URgU9-6mrNIkENMJym9_QF/s640/IMG_7610.jpg" width="318" /></a></div>
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This is my fourth pair of <a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/jenny-overalls-pattern-dungarees-pattern">Jenny Overalls</a>! It's funny though how each pair turns out quite different. On this one I narrowed the hips quite a bit... I am wondering if the fact that jogging is my exercise of choice lately is changing the shape of my body. I also impulsively cut 5/8 ths off of the height of the rise since I've felt that it is a bit high on my other overalls... but then I regretted it after I sewed it all together and tried it on, I think I like it better where it was. But it's probably fine, really. The biggest change was that the back waistband was gaping on these, so I had to rip everything apart and add a seam to the center back waistband to remove an inch. I also removed a wedge from the center back seam. I don't remember having this problem with any of my previous versions, but they were all stretch fabrics, and in some I added waistband elastic to the back seam... so perhaps this has always been a problem. Looks like the waistband still isn't perfect in back, but trust me it is better than it was!<br />
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I thought I had some overall hardware... but it turns out I had used it all up. I did have these super cute floral jeans buttons though from a mixed box I bought on Amazon awhile back. So I opted to add buttonholes to the straps, so that I can add hardware later if I want to. Actually I'm sort of liking the buttonhole method, the look is a bit more casual, but the overall hardware sometimes catches in my hair whereas the buttonholes are very low profile.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--aYA6dUZdA0/Xp3PfoiB9-I/AAAAAAAAHn4/PmtgNXshJe0W1zZdR5lyTSZCd8NwCrr8QCEwYBhgLKs4DAL1OcqzRiwIXWmpwz7lUd-gSQqflUI-p9UwUoyy1OcBERheiWkT7pGY2R0bjU2bjCZJtNv9Eths_9iQDMgR61gKaormpRlWiACW9NJmnAnQ48E_q4hbPmBJCqnBtlIdgH2AZ5y7WDAlq4X1W8pbP-rZ1EPuibY8mbbUJH8g3sthZtgChbvnNW5BmkSsf_ZjE9JmPxMrGyNZFqY1O6MFU-KtIM0INeAxAJNoHdb3ISZ8zDpftdAqcZJhdKKZnWPt34f_gq1Gs8BZ7pH2RWdcugt4YknETZ5XjI5CP-2Mb1ZLL-ZycP3ddovxQDmgKUr8Sa_ye5nA3MOzylH1MzPbe1bPxW_eIcRos5u5L4gT8Tn1v2x1HN4QyA7aXOTDVcg_RQsWhQExnXNjQ23ZnWMevK_2xznDuZdqhCKyVAkhbf9oBsuZEwfcTjlvKguCmNSVDFGmIiYmZIUlL41CW_AnsFiRqRMVesZPN2ircyPhJ1VjQoFKGf7LeCl9qcE55pJO6V92itOr_46i4Gx7z9IHx-565_yaoY996BoWSX1zFFW1echBQKU79GaxYmCByKlvWwRUv6UwofaQMHxJ2alUQO8Aq1S6WEWefVFZA9EruMIWn9_QF/s1600/IMG_2133.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--aYA6dUZdA0/Xp3PfoiB9-I/AAAAAAAAHn4/PmtgNXshJe0W1zZdR5lyTSZCd8NwCrr8QCEwYBhgLKs4DAL1OcqzRiwIXWmpwz7lUd-gSQqflUI-p9UwUoyy1OcBERheiWkT7pGY2R0bjU2bjCZJtNv9Eths_9iQDMgR61gKaormpRlWiACW9NJmnAnQ48E_q4hbPmBJCqnBtlIdgH2AZ5y7WDAlq4X1W8pbP-rZ1EPuibY8mbbUJH8g3sthZtgChbvnNW5BmkSsf_ZjE9JmPxMrGyNZFqY1O6MFU-KtIM0INeAxAJNoHdb3ISZ8zDpftdAqcZJhdKKZnWPt34f_gq1Gs8BZ7pH2RWdcugt4YknETZ5XjI5CP-2Mb1ZLL-ZycP3ddovxQDmgKUr8Sa_ye5nA3MOzylH1MzPbe1bPxW_eIcRos5u5L4gT8Tn1v2x1HN4QyA7aXOTDVcg_RQsWhQExnXNjQ23ZnWMevK_2xznDuZdqhCKyVAkhbf9oBsuZEwfcTjlvKguCmNSVDFGmIiYmZIUlL41CW_AnsFiRqRMVesZPN2ircyPhJ1VjQoFKGf7LeCl9qcE55pJO6V92itOr_46i4Gx7z9IHx-565_yaoY996BoWSX1zFFW1echBQKU79GaxYmCByKlvWwRUv6UwofaQMHxJ2alUQO8Aq1S6WEWefVFZA9EruMIWn9_QF/s640/IMG_2133.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I'm wearing these today and loving them. I want ALL THE OVERALLS... I have more planned! I'm wearing them with my <a href="http://unlikelynest.blogspot.com/2020/04/plum-blossom-blouse.html">plum blossom blouse</a> in these pics.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mv3ORLZwfh8/Xp3OP5sk32I/AAAAAAAAHng/rNcxV5MUOeQymaVGWMv-7-M83jITx3sVwCEwYBhgLKs4DAL1OcqwhTt_3durnfvF_kPqy4Gu6sdEPYq3OGAYLH1EHskwJdrKwwArhmtM5qxn2s_pa38gPu6qIuKCOAsQepEuQQcrjtbb74H5YbLF6Tx5fuBzW2kyvF12oZ2pTF4S7prbMN4bB2o_bTEbRTWRLzYPAvClFdDZmHagz0o2ckT8p8tUjt-422U2RorVYggEiZo5UqVCJ-otX8C-DNVVb3ZnlHx1JufltO6HEX0R3o2CeQWYcBRJmsaW21t286BkDudUPlCpaILaw3mYOk8lJ8w0aphxRny0Hh4YK5LVZDW3Q_4zI9dLMZjbCzkmGU_73T03okBlac0a21yxQgMcsyHaF-9nAT78TFB261MNIKb7R90U1ib2VU-1un6VeDnMiouUgHAXt29IRhRl3_KHzu5X-A0RmDL4LLOFJcbl9kWCdzGLFiwXWgOtxHEG53maZV4DrHR-DOAE3ShUNIJAmWgDkdhyyI7bZdvDaG7TLTPE3RQiOGJCkl46RqFsniWrqP4lYrEZxVdra8EVkwppKizf-FCut0Sn8oy1lrbKkgMgLp6akibB8CqKFmDokWRkKi1DFfQesGhh5u6fl8H9xFXxqWJFy9-xigoe6ywuUMN6o9_QF/s1600/IMG_7601.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="610" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mv3ORLZwfh8/Xp3OP5sk32I/AAAAAAAAHng/rNcxV5MUOeQymaVGWMv-7-M83jITx3sVwCEwYBhgLKs4DAL1OcqwhTt_3durnfvF_kPqy4Gu6sdEPYq3OGAYLH1EHskwJdrKwwArhmtM5qxn2s_pa38gPu6qIuKCOAsQepEuQQcrjtbb74H5YbLF6Tx5fuBzW2kyvF12oZ2pTF4S7prbMN4bB2o_bTEbRTWRLzYPAvClFdDZmHagz0o2ckT8p8tUjt-422U2RorVYggEiZo5UqVCJ-otX8C-DNVVb3ZnlHx1JufltO6HEX0R3o2CeQWYcBRJmsaW21t286BkDudUPlCpaILaw3mYOk8lJ8w0aphxRny0Hh4YK5LVZDW3Q_4zI9dLMZjbCzkmGU_73T03okBlac0a21yxQgMcsyHaF-9nAT78TFB261MNIKb7R90U1ib2VU-1un6VeDnMiouUgHAXt29IRhRl3_KHzu5X-A0RmDL4LLOFJcbl9kWCdzGLFiwXWgOtxHEG53maZV4DrHR-DOAE3ShUNIJAmWgDkdhyyI7bZdvDaG7TLTPE3RQiOGJCkl46RqFsniWrqP4lYrEZxVdra8EVkwppKizf-FCut0Sn8oy1lrbKkgMgLp6akibB8CqKFmDokWRkKi1DFfQesGhh5u6fl8H9xFXxqWJFy9-xigoe6ywuUMN6o9_QF/s640/IMG_7601.jpg" width="324" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bX1bn1oZbv8/Xp3OQuNvX2I/AAAAAAAAHnc/WSrWyYBGK7gLNaQcgkHUH9SKUaIyMbZ1QCEwYBhgLKs4DAL1OcqxbvRPmSbcZXbEhWcdb5j0WTwvUh7siokUIgJS_g5ci8OMsMCIxEIDFzwIqvrpdS2Dv4gyKvx-1sUrnSwXaPJ3iD-NlQiA8O38GzJ2SIKiRAQy8Tlt8cbvYsyK_P9PaMqEH7EKXouJ5QpceqUhg498Iji_uQA5ClNTtMb9Hg0CYT5aGXtDICjRZxBwhF44fPcF059Pm-W_oj-JWhgNpgWzU1Sp0e0HRlNCmMasEQmab6ZIAwi_ZGQmjNayeaKr2Z2NgmlNgZGjRrzkdDkgldZr9G3e9iK384AjRwJUvDZ8aUQGZAAdMRKVm-zb2f_n9CpP1GMNirVW7vAiL1cwnYFyOnwfp6Elspr2Ubt_9qpUHOcGA3bUTdG34UwsY3Hdj3qpEu9jl_aktoV4Kq-d_yjzAK15U3NFquSjBmskSDhgRXKSbZeww0oIU4uHFkBJ__v_X2PX_qhAEuTddn_DAAs89XaJ5tBXvTwLq8n6wcwCMngYzvQVf2cFYzo02Ek4IAqPecZHHASkJi5k6wnX69QF7FXl16F4NaPzPlwhE_i7FlXwPm2GLg8xAQSaMuQiDAg-fJZ5zO2T6JsLqreBhEPJiz7P36q7pLKjlMJKp9_QF/s1600/IMG_7607.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="629" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bX1bn1oZbv8/Xp3OQuNvX2I/AAAAAAAAHnc/WSrWyYBGK7gLNaQcgkHUH9SKUaIyMbZ1QCEwYBhgLKs4DAL1OcqxbvRPmSbcZXbEhWcdb5j0WTwvUh7siokUIgJS_g5ci8OMsMCIxEIDFzwIqvrpdS2Dv4gyKvx-1sUrnSwXaPJ3iD-NlQiA8O38GzJ2SIKiRAQy8Tlt8cbvYsyK_P9PaMqEH7EKXouJ5QpceqUhg498Iji_uQA5ClNTtMb9Hg0CYT5aGXtDICjRZxBwhF44fPcF059Pm-W_oj-JWhgNpgWzU1Sp0e0HRlNCmMasEQmab6ZIAwi_ZGQmjNayeaKr2Z2NgmlNgZGjRrzkdDkgldZr9G3e9iK384AjRwJUvDZ8aUQGZAAdMRKVm-zb2f_n9CpP1GMNirVW7vAiL1cwnYFyOnwfp6Elspr2Ubt_9qpUHOcGA3bUTdG34UwsY3Hdj3qpEu9jl_aktoV4Kq-d_yjzAK15U3NFquSjBmskSDhgRXKSbZeww0oIU4uHFkBJ__v_X2PX_qhAEuTddn_DAAs89XaJ5tBXvTwLq8n6wcwCMngYzvQVf2cFYzo02Ek4IAqPecZHHASkJi5k6wnX69QF7FXl16F4NaPzPlwhE_i7FlXwPm2GLg8xAQSaMuQiDAg-fJZ5zO2T6JsLqreBhEPJiz7P36q7pLKjlMJKp9_QF/s640/IMG_7607.jpg" width="334" /></a></div>
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<br />dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-85749769325345449162020-04-07T17:56:00.000-04:002020-04-07T17:56:39.718-04:00Plum blossom blouse<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Lately I've been really into stripes and solids, but this print was just irresistible. As soon as the first taste of spring hit, I pulled it out and set to work.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H8J_MLz9Ksw/Xozw2LZUoaI/AAAAAAAAHlc/7vVQhz75QcgkSPPxBvFTNap3ED7KOcjlACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_7549.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1200" height="638" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H8J_MLz9Ksw/Xozw2LZUoaI/AAAAAAAAHlc/7vVQhz75QcgkSPPxBvFTNap3ED7KOcjlACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_7549.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here is a closeup of the print of plum or apple blossoms, with a hand drawn pen-and-ink and watercolor look. It was from <a href="http://emmaonesock.com/">emmaonesock</a>, printed on a light and floaty cotton voile.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fa8B7W6r1fY/XozwmO4tiII/AAAAAAAAHl0/zxQl7xIBF2A0lPknwgKoOXwx5s4ozuvCQCEwYBhgLKs4DAMBZVoBy4IYzX3vTBsOOWWIqeeFlhexqbm5mLhaAokErcrN0Nv_reJWL_EotumwVaaMQYXC-STy_OO9lqB9vaoR6oR9Cq0GChbK8wyllAcAM89OmzPm1cuj9QjKUr3acJjepg5KvBWTLD4O-1IfprlnM7mzVR47YdHGKrWUK0t4bKeLvmZrHJT2IaxWCVY9lciBAmU86gOsnC4HFxM4xvF-8PzC90G60VRcaHFBlaGPNr68YnxRCELa0i-2sxumeFYMWg5X1imgw-t5_3BnDZK4PnYZqIXft4-1aqy05bVjDKgH1M7atR_25kb5t-xzsTEBmUDdXbrsbipe4s2A6OZpFvcWrnobm-z8-CCPaqpm0_yE1cMkP4Y2C3_KF6UGnd4CbL_a9aKW1kycRViDvN2xiH7euE_S1HARnRi7E-EL5fnoXedpsD6x2NDyw8ZPPIAYVhfWwAc3rry5ecvCbjzQpIB6qpNt-sOnTr2IRMhAo5Dos46d5Ate1rsBtNIjLNo4y2YHePJcTQa0uD_idWTDq0uHxx8cMehrOHjmthOLHAtnC2nSGombR_FokeSiasSWHLFHQZBlZRCikbqDwdcmSEnVZvwGIqjIVLo-zMIzos_QF/s1600/IMG_7544.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="953" data-original-width="1200" height="508" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fa8B7W6r1fY/XozwmO4tiII/AAAAAAAAHl0/zxQl7xIBF2A0lPknwgKoOXwx5s4ozuvCQCEwYBhgLKs4DAMBZVoBy4IYzX3vTBsOOWWIqeeFlhexqbm5mLhaAokErcrN0Nv_reJWL_EotumwVaaMQYXC-STy_OO9lqB9vaoR6oR9Cq0GChbK8wyllAcAM89OmzPm1cuj9QjKUr3acJjepg5KvBWTLD4O-1IfprlnM7mzVR47YdHGKrWUK0t4bKeLvmZrHJT2IaxWCVY9lciBAmU86gOsnC4HFxM4xvF-8PzC90G60VRcaHFBlaGPNr68YnxRCELa0i-2sxumeFYMWg5X1imgw-t5_3BnDZK4PnYZqIXft4-1aqy05bVjDKgH1M7atR_25kb5t-xzsTEBmUDdXbrsbipe4s2A6OZpFvcWrnobm-z8-CCPaqpm0_yE1cMkP4Y2C3_KF6UGnd4CbL_a9aKW1kycRViDvN2xiH7euE_S1HARnRi7E-EL5fnoXedpsD6x2NDyw8ZPPIAYVhfWwAc3rry5ecvCbjzQpIB6qpNt-sOnTr2IRMhAo5Dos46d5Ate1rsBtNIjLNo4y2YHePJcTQa0uD_idWTDq0uHxx8cMehrOHjmthOLHAtnC2nSGombR_FokeSiasSWHLFHQZBlZRCikbqDwdcmSEnVZvwGIqjIVLo-zMIzos_QF/s640/IMG_7544.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I made a <a href="https://oliverands.com/shop/classic-shirt-sewing-pattern.html">Liesl Classic shirt</a>, with my usual modifications... no bust dart, extra ease.<br />
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I did tweak the sleeves for a slightly romantic vibe. I added lots of extra ease by slashing and spreading, then gathered it in with pleats at the binding. I left off the cuff and tower placket and added a bias bound sleeve placket and bias bound the sleeve with a loop for the button closure. </div>
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The buttons are mother of pearl buttons that I dropped in some intense pink dye when I was dying fabric awhile ago. They might have a very slight pink tint... or that might just be my imagination!<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rrLTWiFwcX4/Xozw2Ep5dmI/AAAAAAAAHl0/iJpv4agHZF0yTAHWi6jpOYNxDgqTVbANQCEwYBhgLKs4DAMBZVoBSWIlivdakKmMw45vsWTQbA7T57Wla1fUftOnWGps6nWVetAOGour7kA6tBfHIf1vi1F6ETiOS7yxvIVlIY-UWdXoQQdzSdz1XDy4NawvWll53eR5d1udq_M41M7u07lNDnzHi7gwSqZP4bWWvGuQOIsa9CIKc5E2q1R5i57-c95hfJwKzccR_h3l71vHgjulMS7oGSSfHgfANX4KlmfEKVrVGKSRkKinLuZZROigHBnNvq_DVDKSSrC1omBt_F7Ph9w16JVX0LveCYV_g7s1bfFlINdeLpdNee7RHVuGvVkrals901wjhRHaX5xI4K3ufK_Wl7iSMBZLlCWGUj5vpz4SXFriEiBm4K9_tL6LxZZc4G4A-39UdFbnuMvPSt4EZozm-N1ZeSZQUQsfLGqxCf-0UBegn-pSYAX9EDE4i-t4Pe2Y3CV3VPbJs_hGr1glX7BkbyKepuweJjy7dBwXZUPaIn_c8pSP7tIUiRTGD5B5wYu_PtLPoCDSM4e2fmYiKh7YzYmCxZrvmA1HKDWZCyqcd3EI2bEekh2QHxi82x-WQelvpfGWMxTKOm2RgrjJptz4_Ab9MH13Ri1H6vJwQBThQKC9dZRhrMLXus_QF/s1600/IMG_7560.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1150" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rrLTWiFwcX4/Xozw2Ep5dmI/AAAAAAAAHl0/iJpv4agHZF0yTAHWi6jpOYNxDgqTVbANQCEwYBhgLKs4DAMBZVoBSWIlivdakKmMw45vsWTQbA7T57Wla1fUftOnWGps6nWVetAOGour7kA6tBfHIf1vi1F6ETiOS7yxvIVlIY-UWdXoQQdzSdz1XDy4NawvWll53eR5d1udq_M41M7u07lNDnzHi7gwSqZP4bWWvGuQOIsa9CIKc5E2q1R5i57-c95hfJwKzccR_h3l71vHgjulMS7oGSSfHgfANX4KlmfEKVrVGKSRkKinLuZZROigHBnNvq_DVDKSSrC1omBt_F7Ph9w16JVX0LveCYV_g7s1bfFlINdeLpdNee7RHVuGvVkrals901wjhRHaX5xI4K3ufK_Wl7iSMBZLlCWGUj5vpz4SXFriEiBm4K9_tL6LxZZc4G4A-39UdFbnuMvPSt4EZozm-N1ZeSZQUQsfLGqxCf-0UBegn-pSYAX9EDE4i-t4Pe2Y3CV3VPbJs_hGr1glX7BkbyKepuweJjy7dBwXZUPaIn_c8pSP7tIUiRTGD5B5wYu_PtLPoCDSM4e2fmYiKh7YzYmCxZrvmA1HKDWZCyqcd3EI2bEekh2QHxi82x-WQelvpfGWMxTKOm2RgrjJptz4_Ab9MH13Ri1H6vJwQBThQKC9dZRhrMLXus_QF/s640/IMG_7560.jpg" width="612" /></a></div>
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The other change I always make with the Liesl shirt is to round the curve of the hem at the side seam so that I can bind it with one continuous piece of bias binding. I find this the easiest and cleanest way to hem my shirts.<br />
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A floral woven shirt is actually a first in my wardrobe. Can't wait for the plum trees to bloom so that I can camouflage myself in a tree ;).<br />
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Not to mention the fact that shirts are about all one gets to show off in the many zoom meetings that now comprise my life. A new one is a fun change.<br />
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My daughter broke her arm this weekend! She's a trooper... and it is probably the most exciting thing that has happened to her since the schools closed.<br />
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<br />dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-54798398593115917662020-03-29T11:20:00.000-04:002020-03-29T11:20:03.224-04:00My first hand knit sweater: Snoqualmie by Michele Wang<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It's been a couple weeks since I've written a post... and the whole world has changed. It's pretty rare that anything other than being very busy will affect my desire to sew, but when the world started turning upside down, all I wanted to do was knit and watch Next in Fashion. </div>
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Also contributing to my knitting binge was the sudden cancellation of the family ski trip I had been planning for months. It was looking like a go, I had even talked to people at the ski lodge to book lessons and they had been sure they would be open... and then everything very suddenly shut down. Therefore, lots of time to knit. </div>
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So, I finished my first ever sweater! You can also find me on Ravelry <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/projects/Dalachin/snoqualmie">here</a> for all the knitty details.<br />
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This is the <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/snoqualmie">Snoqualmie by Michele Wang</a> for Brooklyn Tweed. Quite honestly I never would have considered such a project if it wasn't for <a href="https://closetcasepatterns.com/announcing-the-snoqualmie-cardigan-knitalong/">Heather Lou's Snoqualmie knit along</a>. I thought cables would be really difficult and I'm not a great knitter, but Heather is very convincing. Of course the sew along was from 2016 but it stuck in my head and when I was looking for a new project this summer, I decided to go for it.<br />
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I cast on this summer during our annual camping trip to Cape Cod last July. I very unimaginatively chose to use the exact yarn and colorway that the sample was made in. The sample just looks so perfect to me that I couldn't conceive of another variation.<br />
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I loved working with Brooklyn Tweed's Quarry. I looked long and hard for a substitute, but I couldn't find anything like it, anywhere. I also was influenced by comments on how the lightness of the yarn was key to keeping the oversize cable design from being too heavy. So I just relented and got Quarry, direct from Brooklyn Tweed. It is not like any other yarn I've worked with and I love the rustic quality and the light squishyness of it. It has a wooly feel and isn't super soft like some other yarns, but is surprisingly non-scratchy. I read all of the complaints about how easily it breaks, but I'm not a tight knitter and I hand wound all of my balls so I didn't have any of those problems.<br />
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I really enjoyed cabling. I used a cable needle for most of this sweater, although there was a point where I lost the cable needle and I had to try cabling without a cable needle for awhile, and that was okay. However I preferred working with the cable needle so I got another one. One of the things I love about cabling is that the sweater becomes very visual, and I could tell right away if I made a mistake or lost count. One thing that has driven me sort of nuts with top down knits is keeping track of all the stitches, and I hate counting! I also love tonal patterns and texture, so cabling was really satisfying to my eye.<br />
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The other thing that really surprised me is that I loved knitting a sweater in pieces. Top down seems to be all the rage, but the shape of the sweater is difficult for me to conceive as I am working on it and I'm never sure whether I'm doing it right. Also at a certain point they get huge and you end up carrying around a whole sweater everywhere you bring your knitting. Then you are knitting endless rows for the body of the sweater and figuring out where you dropped that stitch is nearly impossible and that's when I tend to lose interest and stuff the project in the back of a drawer somewhere.<br />
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However, knitting the pieces gave me more manageable goals-- finish a front, YAY, etc. Also, for someone who has sewn many cardigans on a sewing machine, the pattern pieces made visual sense to me. I've read about knitters knitting all the pieces and then not wanting to sew them together, but I didn't mind that part at all, it was sort of exciting to see them all come together.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-URb0Im7d_Bg/Xn_ZSQI052I/AAAAAAAAHjY/PCAywBSfA2skXbRfMYuIIPW0nXnde0smwCEwYBhgLKs4DAMBZVoBkDfJjiymkljYESdjavXr51Bo5hhDomNQc7JI3BvTx6_29ep70hJeSaSLi6LWO-9BUVgIFBtDKcrp_tV8dYBHdVlB5ffvZLbxi-K8Ij5M9XDqX8qV2H7Ym8eJJZuQOux4Ie5K9GWsBD55ANo6D0GeGQyEt03Zse6Rwg__4H5hkANEqwclDiwSwCWtQgnlhKLPC4rAvZGj0zG1BWbe3AxlKV6tBwZ-nNcWJiIIUQ3Ibq1MXekl3cqNiYSgYn25u6sbFCaImVxHjuoesPTgpGSHQUppWzjjkRf8mQWtj9k_SFm4DHSlk4372bIiEraDAjvYRPJuDlSzsTctaaRxrC7RwH_fSvTeRdtfRpk1iGhmDNKTdqqmI-mWr5LHA_5B74lRIxQ8jmlFYUkjX60nJd2pssvmyR8jTTOygs5t8K4EhLsuYQYMPKQhoF5OGpq_RGuhYEo5T4uLajC1mQ2fh0cR-oc-C6e1TRs99Tr3f7dQdmObKn8JTTYZr5q8TI0jmhJv6EseMX85h8tsRj9VvGSeLt5SZNN2vD5ILIZSxaVDnDcMd_NqjFGhhcFTEYE60RP4eCSotAVK611wKFFG6s8PiOwimeLYh-P25MNjygvQF/s1600/IMG_7488.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="953" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-URb0Im7d_Bg/Xn_ZSQI052I/AAAAAAAAHjY/PCAywBSfA2skXbRfMYuIIPW0nXnde0smwCEwYBhgLKs4DAMBZVoBkDfJjiymkljYESdjavXr51Bo5hhDomNQc7JI3BvTx6_29ep70hJeSaSLi6LWO-9BUVgIFBtDKcrp_tV8dYBHdVlB5ffvZLbxi-K8Ij5M9XDqX8qV2H7Ym8eJJZuQOux4Ie5K9GWsBD55ANo6D0GeGQyEt03Zse6Rwg__4H5hkANEqwclDiwSwCWtQgnlhKLPC4rAvZGj0zG1BWbe3AxlKV6tBwZ-nNcWJiIIUQ3Ibq1MXekl3cqNiYSgYn25u6sbFCaImVxHjuoesPTgpGSHQUppWzjjkRf8mQWtj9k_SFm4DHSlk4372bIiEraDAjvYRPJuDlSzsTctaaRxrC7RwH_fSvTeRdtfRpk1iGhmDNKTdqqmI-mWr5LHA_5B74lRIxQ8jmlFYUkjX60nJd2pssvmyR8jTTOygs5t8K4EhLsuYQYMPKQhoF5OGpq_RGuhYEo5T4uLajC1mQ2fh0cR-oc-C6e1TRs99Tr3f7dQdmObKn8JTTYZr5q8TI0jmhJv6EseMX85h8tsRj9VvGSeLt5SZNN2vD5ILIZSxaVDnDcMd_NqjFGhhcFTEYE60RP4eCSotAVK611wKFFG6s8PiOwimeLYh-P25MNjygvQF/s640/IMG_7488.jpg" width="508" /></a></div>
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As a total newbie to this kind of knitting, I did have some setbacks. When making the back and still sort of learning the pattern, I ended up ripping rows at a time and re-knitting. I was also tricked by the instruction to knit until the armhole was a certain length-- I figured that one would measure the armhole on the curve with a tape measure, because one sometimes does this in sewing to fit a sleeve to an armhole. Apparently that was not what was meant, but I didn't figure out why it looked so strange until I went to block it and pulled out the sheet with the measurements... it seems that one was meant to measure the armhole by the length of the vertical rise. Well, why didn't they just say that? I guess real knitters understand this kind of instruction. So I ripped back and added the requisite length to the armhole, and all was well.<br />
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I also had a very difficult time making the fronts match. I finished the left front on our trip, and then set down the project for a few months, and when I came back to it during the holidays, my gauge was totally different. I knit the right front, ripped, and knit it again, and it still didn't match. So then I ripped the better part of the left front and knit that again, and it wasn't perfect, but it was much closer.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DCV5QurnQzo/Xn_ZR6LHOWI/AAAAAAAAHjo/Z9Ho6aMkikE550_1XUW7TOJHBh7hiLwnQCEwYBhgLKs4DAMBZVoBxoXnR2-wlXYdxudxA2c36C4xaqZMrcg3VtLnEV-Swhkk8ziqhqJ_P6n5eu2ffYV_gcoD8A7V7WoICqdskZPcJn-nFTR_2pMWjz37u7d-tHRphCpS4y7klcC5gTi4mo_v16EiHETU8iHFxk4y1GLo2CNL9r4bwBZxyZfA-B_m43rNNVxxFbovtfh7v8XhoS3cSA0GsDKEwebMa1-ZJb73LbmXUcpaXAjl2_eRJjA0q8mNGFBaAhlkJ4fNXMqsgA3N2RGLhRIDJwRkCNxXwoqPMwKf6uIfrsXVKXuzREAlyLSaZ7iCSv4qUL6EwZA7zWJI3zT86bpAFqLfNDUWiEqlysCJGxtAwr8xgsnLIyxeJeJQ4VuKf_u2HTMMwiGIBHb-_zshDRHPHid-TweKlgj_MFm4aJg7uINyLSDEBU5AjmTwO7zMFw9ErZDu8hX0CMJgVOoPD8V8zXQcTgUjGDcbBZM6KMSrVuNIi7Vu2HV_gQbMy7b946My49ZG6O_b29A-7asGftfZe-Rq_EOs75zxlFmOA-owR2qsZRo8TmCoadMKZqcteoOtPMFVBLNHWg8UsQdtjhTXBiCc6O6tgXgW7xo1fv7hlKANzMIPzgvQF/s1600/IMG_7468.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DCV5QurnQzo/Xn_ZR6LHOWI/AAAAAAAAHjo/Z9Ho6aMkikE550_1XUW7TOJHBh7hiLwnQCEwYBhgLKs4DAMBZVoBxoXnR2-wlXYdxudxA2c36C4xaqZMrcg3VtLnEV-Swhkk8ziqhqJ_P6n5eu2ffYV_gcoD8A7V7WoICqdskZPcJn-nFTR_2pMWjz37u7d-tHRphCpS4y7klcC5gTi4mo_v16EiHETU8iHFxk4y1GLo2CNL9r4bwBZxyZfA-B_m43rNNVxxFbovtfh7v8XhoS3cSA0GsDKEwebMa1-ZJb73LbmXUcpaXAjl2_eRJjA0q8mNGFBaAhlkJ4fNXMqsgA3N2RGLhRIDJwRkCNxXwoqPMwKf6uIfrsXVKXuzREAlyLSaZ7iCSv4qUL6EwZA7zWJI3zT86bpAFqLfNDUWiEqlysCJGxtAwr8xgsnLIyxeJeJQ4VuKf_u2HTMMwiGIBHb-_zshDRHPHid-TweKlgj_MFm4aJg7uINyLSDEBU5AjmTwO7zMFw9ErZDu8hX0CMJgVOoPD8V8zXQcTgUjGDcbBZM6KMSrVuNIi7Vu2HV_gQbMy7b946My49ZG6O_b29A-7asGftfZe-Rq_EOs75zxlFmOA-owR2qsZRo8TmCoadMKZqcteoOtPMFVBLNHWg8UsQdtjhTXBiCc6O6tgXgW7xo1fv7hlKANzMIPzgvQF/s640/IMG_7468.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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After that fiasco with the fronts, I decided to knit the sleeves at the same time on a long cable. This worked beautifully for me... sort of cumbersome, but much better for consistency. Next time I'll probably try knitting the fronts at the same time too, because apparently I'm a very inconsistent knitter.<br />
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The pattern is really thoughtful, I enjoyed following it. I really appreciated the glossary of terms and descriptions of how to do specific techniques. The tubular cast on is gorgeous and so professional looking. This was one area where I was unable to interpret the pattern instructions, but<a href="https://verypink.com/2017/03/01/2-x-2-tubular-cast/"> this video by Very Pink</a> was super helpful. I also thought the selvage edge and the instructions on casting off for cables to be very helpful in providing a nice finish. I loved the buttonhole instructions, very cool. The one thing I didn't totally love was the way the collar is attached such that the join is visible on the inside when you wear the cardigan open. I guess the idea is that it is a buttoned cardigan and that edge is supposed to be on the inside. I actually have been looking at the Rowe by Michele Wang and the collar on that one is knit double width, folded, and stitched down to hide the seam. However with a bulky yarn like Quarry that wouldn't work so well, so perhaps this is the best solution afterall.<br />
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The wooden buttons are from Etsy, <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/SuppliesSundries">Supplies and Sundries</a> in Iowa, they came super fast and they were perfect.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2KwvQLW9ofc/Xn_ZSUo98CI/AAAAAAAAHjg/ZAve6Eui9eUUrAyVaxIBicTGazBuxAiGgCEwYBhgLKs4DAMBZVoAj3_XCnF94ZxUpPtnA-x-9JxK_1JOYkPVc5nU_e_CQjYeGi1BPTRBC9rqsdYIzxdvq_UEPURGCbyadko33PXYyw68yLsPK4vPZ5D3kXGwPwrt6wWiDcQspeXdfhWF2UNDnXnt5tZRJCgifhZyhuyBkyxwZivIkRqKN1wiqUE_IZhs73cQkp2ppxSSKSK8fm-8CYxWu3_y5zFvk3XodAabhp8dlKiQLMEfY6HRrngrnB-DeSjpyG_Y2kp-s8pUhQDDgRu1m8XGLC6RSWpPUcKPe2Tq1i_m5OVqLxARssFF_bIJqABPhMKrMoUFyuG2Go3k6HM7bFOnnn3kEFoxFxAn1fkJC6RSChhd9ARYmTOPHnJJ5H_YEWCpHjqwhesiNFgi-0weyedU8S_-KTJM4_V68RAAcDsL1Ny6I7QNtSIODZQRgZl4vcpulgT3YblEuJKAFOXoQy_Z4OpbQtsUcNwnUPcheZE76NC4dojUYvDOX0rvAgYWkxMxlw9zw6Lbg2W2H8JmQG-H7WKQlPnostFay6d37Pri_eyOiDDBfBmWHuBjulVxdKx1-TEpc4aOmqUwxWtkE_qSDrZp3V9Bz3j2BZ_wdZrJCJgI5MIL6gvQF/s1600/IMG_7481.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2KwvQLW9ofc/Xn_ZSUo98CI/AAAAAAAAHjg/ZAve6Eui9eUUrAyVaxIBicTGazBuxAiGgCEwYBhgLKs4DAMBZVoAj3_XCnF94ZxUpPtnA-x-9JxK_1JOYkPVc5nU_e_CQjYeGi1BPTRBC9rqsdYIzxdvq_UEPURGCbyadko33PXYyw68yLsPK4vPZ5D3kXGwPwrt6wWiDcQspeXdfhWF2UNDnXnt5tZRJCgifhZyhuyBkyxwZivIkRqKN1wiqUE_IZhs73cQkp2ppxSSKSK8fm-8CYxWu3_y5zFvk3XodAabhp8dlKiQLMEfY6HRrngrnB-DeSjpyG_Y2kp-s8pUhQDDgRu1m8XGLC6RSWpPUcKPe2Tq1i_m5OVqLxARssFF_bIJqABPhMKrMoUFyuG2Go3k6HM7bFOnnn3kEFoxFxAn1fkJC6RSChhd9ARYmTOPHnJJ5H_YEWCpHjqwhesiNFgi-0weyedU8S_-KTJM4_V68RAAcDsL1Ny6I7QNtSIODZQRgZl4vcpulgT3YblEuJKAFOXoQy_Z4OpbQtsUcNwnUPcheZE76NC4dojUYvDOX0rvAgYWkxMxlw9zw6Lbg2W2H8JmQG-H7WKQlPnostFay6d37Pri_eyOiDDBfBmWHuBjulVxdKx1-TEpc4aOmqUwxWtkE_qSDrZp3V9Bz3j2BZ_wdZrJCJgI5MIL6gvQF/s640/IMG_7481.jpg" width="568" /></a></div>
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The fit is quite roomy! It isn't meant to be a fitted sweater, and I was totally going for the idea of a big, cozy, easy fit. Therefore I love it! I do worry that it will stretch out over time though... and since I'm such a loose knitter, I feel that there is rather a lot of danger of that. If I was to make this again, I might size down one size.<br />
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I am super stoked to have finished this in less than a year, and in time to wear it on chilly spring mornings. I'm wearing it now!<br />
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Stay well everyone!dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-65726517887497250822020-03-09T12:34:00.001-04:002020-03-09T12:34:44.125-04:00Stretch Wool Persephone Pants<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
These are my first ever lined wool slacks, and I'm in love! The drape is gorgeous, the texture is sophisticated, and no wrinkling. Why has it taken me so long?</div>
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One reason is that I haven't been sure what kind of fabric I should use for a wool pant. But <a href="http://blog.fabricmartfabrics.com/2020/01/made-by-fabricista-theres-navy-and-then.html">when I saw these by Tipstitched </a>posting for Fabric Mart, I was instantly in love. It is a dark navy medium wool suiting with 5% lycra. The fabric was 70% off... this was a case of effective marketing in action, because I instantly bought 2 yards, and I've never bought anything from Fabric Mart before. My order came quickly and they sent a very generous cut, almost 4 yards, with a note saying that I had gotten extra because it was the end of the roll. After making these pants, I think I still have enough to make another pair.<br />
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I decided to take the risk and prewash, since I will almost certainly wash at home. I also figured the lycra mixed in would help prevent felting. However I dumped too much wool wash in, and it wasn't the kind you can leave in, so I ended up running multiple rinse cycles. Then I threw all caution to the wind and tossed it in the dryer to dry. After all of that, it shrank about 18 inches in length. I've since bought some Euclan (no rinse wool wash) and I never dry me-mades in the dryer, so I hope not to shrink it further after sewing!<br />
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I was pretty sure that a lining would be preferable for me, since I love wool but the feel of it rubbing between my legs is not ideal for me. It's a stretch wool, so I wanted a stretch lining, but all of the stretch woven linings I could find were poly and I don't like poly next to my skin either. After some searching I settled on a <a href="https://www.fabric.com/buy/0651484/stretch-rayon-challis-pfd">stretch rayon challis from Fabric.com</a>.<br />
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I used my <a href="http://annaallenclothing.com/persephone-pants">Persephone Pant pattern</a> that is modified for stretch (ie, a size down from measurements) and with a fly extension for a zip fly that I used for my <a href="http://unlikelynest.blogspot.com/2020/02/stretch-persephone-jeans-with-little.html">Stretch Denim Persephone pants</a>.<br />
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None of the pants patterns that I regularly use have instructions for lining, so I sort of just winged it. I just cut another set of the same pieces from my lining, minus the fly extensions. I sewed them separately from the wool outer fabric, then basted them in place at the waistband and the fly, thinking they lining would end up being tacked down somehow in all of the sewing of the fly. (I was wrong, btw!)<br />
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What should have been a simple and straight forward zip fly that I've sewn at least 5 times turned into a mess of unpicking. I got cocky and didn't follow the Ginger Jeans instructions, thinking I knew the steps. Well, it finally got all sorted out with a functioning zipper, but I can't say it's the prettiest fly I've ever sewn.<br />
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After the fly was sewn, I realized the lining was still not firmly connected. In the future I think I should add the fly extensions to the lining, so that they would get properly attached in sewing the fly. But as a stop gap measure, I folded the raw edge under and sewed the lining to the pant at the folds of the fly. Not the most elegant solution, but on a dark navy pant, the extra stitching doesn't show, and on the inside it is hidden by the fly.<br />
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I used the navy wool for the back piece of the pocket, and the white lining for the front piece/pocket facing. It was a bit of a trick trying to keep the white lining of the pocket facing from showing when I sewed the waistband, it required sewing about 1/8 of an inch over the edge of the pocket and then pulling the top edge of the pocket out of the way. It is however nice that the pockets end up enclosed inside the lining.<br />
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The waistband is interfaced with <a href="https://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=78&osCsid=374a9f1edd2e53459cd694f99b50c948">medium weight fusible</a> cut in the maximum stretch direction. The waistband facing is made from the rayon challis lining fabric, interfaced with light weight knit interfacing to give it a little more body and durability.<br />
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The lining is shorter and hemmed with a simple double turn of the fabric. The wool is hemmed with a deep 2.25 inch hem done with a machine blind hem stitch.<br />
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I'm glad I went through the extra effort of lining, the pants feel smooth and soft inside. I also think the lining helps smooth out some of the extra bumps and lumps, and it makes the wool hang so nicely. </div>
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I'm loving these pants! The stretch makes them so comfortable. I'm wearing them for the most spring-y day yet this March, but there are some cold days yet to come and I think they'll be gorgeous with my <a href="http://unlikelynest.blogspot.com/2017/12/towards-truly-showerproof-trench.html">gray trench coat</a>. </div>
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Have you made lined pants? What method do you use?</div>
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<br />dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-74858735381869727082020-03-02T10:55:00.001-05:002020-03-02T11:34:31.889-05:00Pietra gray Pietra pants from Closet Case Patterns, with modifications<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Finally complete-- my <a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/pietra-pants-shorts-pattern-pdf-pattern?utm_source=Pinterestu0026utm_medium=Social">Pietra Pants</a>! As y'all probably know, I'm a huge fan of Closet Case Patterns, but these were a bit of a struggle for me. </div>
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I have yet to meet an elastic waist pant that I like the look of, I've sewn up several that have ended up in the pajama drawer. But after seeing so many happy bloggers and instagrammers showing off elastic waist bums that looked just fine, I thought that perhaps Closet Case had perhaps worked some magic...</div>
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The pattern, as usual, was a pleasure to sew. Since I know Closet Case patterns tend to fit me right out of the envelope, I sewed these up without a muslin, to my measurements. My fabric was a stone gray (pietra!) medium-heavy weight linen from <a href="http://fabrics-store.com/">Fabrics-store.com</a>. They came together quickly, with the neat construction typical of Closet Case, facilitated by their fantastic instructions.<br />
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The fit was perfect, as usual. The front view was gorgeous, love those pockets!<br />
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However, when I spun in front of the mirror, I was instantly horrified by the back view. The baggy butt was there, in all its fabric glory. Most likely the effect was intensified by my fabric choice... light gray moderately heavy linen (7 oz) certainly does not have a flattering gather. The thought of elephant skin jumped into my head, and would not leave. The pants got wadded up and buried in the bottom of my project bin.<br />
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I thought about taking a photo for before and after purposes, but could not muster the energy to wrangle a rear end selfie. And dear audience, no matter how much you might say that the rear view was really not that bad, the image of a pachyderm was not going to be easily dislodged.<br />
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After working my way through several other projects, glimpses of gray started taunting me, and this weekend I finally hauled the dreaded baggy butt pant out of the bin and went to work. Closet Case actually does have a tutorial addressing both the addition of a zipper and the removal of excess ease (on the side of the pant) for certain fabrics that don't play well with gathering, and I took these to heart and went even further in my hack-job modifications.<br />
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I unpicked the entire back of the pant, and took (very approximately) 1 inch out of each back side seam, 2 inches out of the center back, and made 1 inch darts over each buttock. I shortened the back waistband to fit the new dimensions of the rear of the pant. I added a side seam invisible zip. It was still was a little loose... so I added the elastic back into the rear waistband.<br />
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And the result...<br />
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I love the result, for me it is a good compromise between a bit of comfort ease in the back and a tidy rear end that I'm not going to be constantly hiding under untucked shirts and tunics. </div>
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Now that my difficulties are behind me 😉, I love the taper of the leg and the huge front pockets. I might need more of these, especially with spring rolling around. I think if I try to sew these again, I might lay out the rear panel of the Pietra over the Jenny trouser pattern to see a hybrid of some sort might work. </div>
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So happy to finally get my Pietra fix. These are on their way to become a favorite in my wardrobe (with modifications!)</div>
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Readers, how do you feel about elastic waist pants? I love the look of some of the RTW elastic waist pants out there, ES Florence pants come to mind, but I have no idea if I'd like wearing them. Do you like the look, or do you tolerate them for the comfort factor? </div>
dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-89444482225699729902020-02-10T14:04:00.000-05:002020-02-10T14:06:36.624-05:00Stretch Persephone Jeans, with a little help from Ginger<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It's taken me awhile to warm to the high-waisted silhouette. My body and mind are adjusting, as slow as ever, to the inevitable creep of fashion. </div>
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The <a href="http://annaallenclothing.com/persephone-pants">Persephone by Anna Allen</a> is the most high-waisted silhouette in my pattern library. My first pair, made over a year ago in linen, languished because they would stretch out during the course of a day and end up sagging. I fixed that recently with a length of buttonhole elastic, and now that they stay up, I love wearing them. So I decided to make another pair.</div>
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This pair is made in Cone Mills 12 oz S-gene denim. Or at least, that's what I think it is... I got it as part of a kit back when Closet Case Patterns was selling Cone Mill kits, which was a long time ago! The kit came with 9 oz and a 12 oz jeans-sized pre cut pieces, and I used the 9 oz and have reordered it multiple times. But the 12 oz has just sat in my stash, until now. Very satisfying to reclaim this stash space!</div>
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The Persephone pants pattern calls for non-stretch, and has a note that testers have used up to 5% stretch. If I'm not mistaken, Cone Mills denim usually is said to have at least 10% stretch. I thought it might work just fine for me. I've never been one for non-stretch pants... I have no tolerance for things that squish my midsection, they make me cranky. And, it worked for <a href="https://www.isewthereforeiam.com/persephone-pants/">isewthereforeiam</a>, and I LOVE everything she makes, so I thought it might work for me too. </div>
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I made them one size smaller than my non-stretch linen pants. If I recall correctly, that would be a 12 graded to between a 14 and 16 at the waist. Then I sewed them up in an order that allowed the most efficient path towards fitting: Sew the inseam on each pant leg, then baste the crotch seam and back darts. Gotta love pants with no side seam! Then, try on, which allowed me to determine that an extra 3 inches removed from the waist would be ideal. I distributed that 3 inches across 2 darts and the back seam, removing 1 inch at each location. Re-tryon-- perfect!</div>
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As before, I substituted the <a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/ginger-mid-rise-jeans-pattern">Ginger Jeans</a> zip fly for the button fly. I just don't see the point of a hidden button fly, somebody enlighten me on why I should go through the trouble? To use the Ginger Jeans zip fly, all that is needed is to add the fly extension onto both sides when cutting (I just held up my ginger jeans pattern to the Persephone and traced it on, extending for the longer waist of the Persephone). I used the fly extension piece from the Ginger Jeans, also lengthened. Then I followed the trusty <a href="https://closetcasepatterns.com/ginger-sewalong-pt-8-sewing-a-fly-front-zipper/">Ginger Jeans sew along</a> that never lets me down. </div>
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Since I had my Ginger Jeans pattern out already, I went with the Ginger Jeans curved waistband. I'm not sure it matters, but anything that might help keep my pants up is worthwhile in my book. I cut it in the stretchy direction of the Cone Mills denim, and faced it with quilting cotton. I also added my favorite <a href="https://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=78">medium weight interfacing</a>. This interfacing is mildly stretchy in one direction, and I cut the waistband interfacing in the stretchy direction which I then fused to the Cone Mills. </div>
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When it came time to add the waistband, I basted it in first. Sometimes I find that tugging slightly on the waistband helps the fit of the jeans and keeps the waistband on a stretch jean from bagging out... not so here, my first basted version messed up all of the good fit previously obtained. So I ripped it off and tried again with no attempt at easing any of the waist in... and the fit was perfect. </div>
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I went with the cute and barely useful pockets that come with the Persephone. I'm not in love with them, but having a pocket is better than no pocket, and it do love the minimalism of the look. They also sew up very quickly, with minimum fuss!</div>
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I hemmed them up 4 inches for a fashionably cropped look. I'm 5'4" and I think Anna Allen drafts for 5'7", so I guess I should have thought about using the shorten lines. </div>
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All in all I think this might have been the quickest pair of pants I've ever made. I cut them out one weekend morning in about an hour, and sewed them up over the course of another weekend day, and with lots of interruptions for kids, housework, napping, etc, I still managed to finish. </div>
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I loving them so far. Might even require the creation of truly cropped top... that would also be a first for me... </div>
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Wearing them today with my <a href="https://unlikelynest.blogspot.com/2020/02/three-cielo-tops-and-persphone-pant.html">plaid long sleeve Cielo top</a>, <a href="https://unlikelynest.blogspot.com/2018/09/wiksten-kimono-amy-jumpsuit-in-black.html">Black linen Wiksten Haori</a>, and a silk-wool black checkered scarf (just a square of fabric with fringed edges).</div>
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dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-65580428676133723302020-02-07T09:00:00.000-05:002020-02-07T09:00:01.132-05:00Classic Comfy Overalls: Cone Mills Denim S-Gene Jenny Overalls<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I've been planning to make some basic denim <a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/jenny-overalls-pattern-dungarees-pattern">Jenny Overalls</a> since I made my first pair. Recently I came across the 3 yards of Cone Mills denim I'd bought for this purpose, and started washing it up. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QkAp6IU0pzk/XjybHXDH55I/AAAAAAAAHZk/rX4VZRLhHWYKwoWB4dPaFf84jA17pHcQwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_7422.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="798" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QkAp6IU0pzk/XjybHXDH55I/AAAAAAAAHZk/rX4VZRLhHWYKwoWB4dPaFf84jA17pHcQwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_7422.jpg" width="424" /></a></div>
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I got it cut and started sewing, then life happened. It languished in piles around my sewing machine, taunting me. I'd sneak in a little sew here and there, and finally, 3 weeks later, they were done!</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MY5yq0_8lOI/XjybHwZZ8rI/AAAAAAAAHaI/uoie6S4zRTMEeD44iENvq63MlLyAFiOIwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_7451.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="795" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MY5yq0_8lOI/XjybHwZZ8rI/AAAAAAAAHaI/uoie6S4zRTMEeD44iENvq63MlLyAFiOIwCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_7451.jpg" width="424" /></a></div>
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I used Cone Mills S-Gene Denim, probably 9 oz. This is a pattern that calls for non-stretch, but I was going for comfort, so I figured it would be fine. I did end up taking in the side seams a bit more than I would have for a non-stretch.<br />
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I also narrowed the legs, using <a href="https://closetcasepatterns.com/easy-pattern-hacking-my-tapered-leg-jenny-overalls/">Heather's tutorial</a> for a tapered leg Jenny, and also her tutorial for <a href="https://closetcasepatterns.com/adding-hip-buttons-jenny-overalls-trousers/">side seam buttons</a>, since I'm sort of obsessed with this look.<br />
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I used <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075175SV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1">these buckles</a> and <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077YHG9QD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1">these buttons</a>, the ones with the tiny stars in a circle, both in antique brass finish.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j7vbkhWp6fA/XjypAb0eCQI/AAAAAAAAHac/-hWR9UeGFE4SEIp_HtwCVv9xo2ATupnhwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_4501.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j7vbkhWp6fA/XjypAb0eCQI/AAAAAAAAHac/-hWR9UeGFE4SEIp_HtwCVv9xo2ATupnhwCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_4501.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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The topstitching and bar tacks are done with Mara 70 thread in color 448. I think this tip originally came from <a href="https://lladybird.com/">Lladybird</a>. It sort of saved me since my machine doesn't much care for topstitching thread that is any thicker than this. When I first started making jeans I bought Mara 30 in a bunch of colors but it is a battle to use it, and forget about trying to sew a buttonhole with it. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DMUbch76C2M/XjypAXTsmUI/AAAAAAAAHag/jorC7yCBlB02KcKuH0Ykx5In7AH-yHFiACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_5561.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DMUbch76C2M/XjypAXTsmUI/AAAAAAAAHag/jorC7yCBlB02KcKuH0Ykx5In7AH-yHFiACEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_5561.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Since I was using stretch denim, I decided to do a front pocket stay, such as the one on Ginger Jeans. I drafted the pieces using the Jenny pattern, and sewed them up in a cute clouds quilting cotton that I picked up on super sale at Hobby Lobby. </div>
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I also made the bib facing out of my cute cloud cotton! The inside waistband is also this quilting cotton, although I didn't get any pics of it.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PIutrazAmH0/XjypAdftxKI/AAAAAAAAHaY/w6jz3JSxBUM4GiCBeWOqOjQVK2_GTCTDQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_1561.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PIutrazAmH0/XjypAdftxKI/AAAAAAAAHaY/w6jz3JSxBUM4GiCBeWOqOjQVK2_GTCTDQCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_1561.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This is the first time I followed the directions for the straps and just turned over the edges .25 twice. I thought it would be fine with denim, but they are floppier than I'd like. Next time I'll go back to cutting double the strap pieces and sewing them together as a faced strap, it makes them much more sturdy and they hold their shape better.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3lkWg0GCXeY/XjybHpJ876I/AAAAAAAAHZw/DX6VRmH0Z0Ux4yUA629MMBXl_C925_3fwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_7434.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="830" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3lkWg0GCXeY/XjybHpJ876I/AAAAAAAAHZw/DX6VRmH0Z0Ux4yUA629MMBXl_C925_3fwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_7434.jpg" width="442" /></a></div>
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They are super comfy, the denim is soft on the inside and the stretch makes movement effortless. I imagine they'll be a favorite for weekend tasks like gardening and housework and hanging with the kids. I'll probably also wear them to work on occasion, for more casual days, although I think they'd also make a statement with a pair of shiny boots and a great blazer. </div>
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Bonus pictures of our cat Dala, preening and dozing on our Eames chair (look alike).dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-65796876193974607662020-02-06T19:59:00.002-05:002020-02-06T19:59:41.667-05:00Wool Plaid Tessuti Yuki as a winter jumper<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've been thinking for awhile about making a wool jumper over/dress. I've been wearing my <a href="http://unlikelynest.blogspot.com/2019/07/closet-case-charlie-caftan-in-striped.html">linen charlie caftan</a> in this capacity, and I think it's super cute over leggings and a long sleeve top, but it would be ideal to have the warmth of a wool version.<br />
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Then <a href="https://thornberry.wordpress.com/2020/02/01/tessuti-yuki-dress/">Thornberry posted her Yuki dress</a>, and it occurred to me that this is a very similar design, only with a cozy cowl. It's funny, she talked about the pattern being wintery but then make a super colorful summery Yuki.<br />
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Then I came across this INCREDIBLE wool fabric at Homespun, just the perfect weight and drape for a dress, cozy soft, and with a very cool irregular plaid/houndstooth pattern. I've sort of been looking forever for just the right fabric, and I can't believe it was in the back corner of my local fabric shop. The Yuki made even more sense with this fabric, as I'm not sure what I would have done with the inset.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fDZVd3Gqxr4/XjyuxmUglZI/AAAAAAAAHbo/LgD6C235jOomBfFoyMrYkYb2J0xUuGikwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_7435_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="730" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fDZVd3Gqxr4/XjyuxmUglZI/AAAAAAAAHbo/LgD6C235jOomBfFoyMrYkYb2J0xUuGikwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_7435_1.jpg" width="388" /></a></div>
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A close up of the fabric, showing its tiny houndstooths in the plaid design. <br />
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It's been awhile since I tackled a Tessuti pattern. It had all of the usual hallmarks, hand drawn, quirky construction, etc. The taping together went rather quickly, since there are only two main pattern pieces. The pattern pieces fit side by side on my 60 inch fabric, which was a relief, since it made matching the plaid from front to back a breeze.<br />
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The pocket construction was the usual Tessuti method, which is very cool and causes the pockets to stay to the front better than a traditional inseam pocket. However the suggested seam finish is serging and I couldn't get my brain around how I would french seam this pocket design, so I had to go with a completely serged interior. Which is totally fine, but I'm spoiled by all of my french seamed and flat felled garments that look as pretty inside as out. I'll get over it, I'm sure.<br />
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The armhole finish, however, was both fussy and sort of unsatisfactory. The directions have you turn under the armhole twice and stitch down, then there is this complicated dance to get it all to lay flat with the side seam. They seem to know how fussy this all is, as they suggest basting it first... Well it all sort of worked out fine even though I did not baste, but the finish isn't as smooth as I feel it could be, since a turned over edge just isn't as nice as other methods. It seems to me there is probably a way to do this with bias or a narrow facing, and I'll probably give that a go if I make another Yuki.<br />
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The one bit that was fun and unexpected is the way the drawstring hole is formed. I don't know how to describe it, but it is super clever and easy. The drawstring I used is actually a length of rayon seam finish which was the only black finished string-like thing I had on hand. The pattern suggests making a tube and turning it, but I didn't relish doing that with my wool. I might at some point replace this string with something a bit nicer... a turned piece of black linen or even black twill tape would probably be ideal.<br />
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Cute and different, right? I'm wearing it here with a silk jersey tee and self-drafted black leggings. I think I will love wearing this on snowy days!dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-14038942135058678142020-02-06T18:02:00.000-05:002020-02-06T18:02:02.831-05:00Three Cielo tops and a Persphone Pant<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I've been admiring all of the boxy tees that seem to have taken the sewing world by storm lately. Several of the ones I most admired only come in larger bust sizes-- for example the <a href="https://munaandbroad.com/products/torrens-box-top-sewing-pattern">Torrens Top</a> really caught my eye, but alas, I'm several inches below the smallest bust measurement. </div>
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There are of course dozens of other boxy tops out there, and as I was searching through them, it occurred to me that I might already have a perfectly suitable pattern: the <a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/cielo-top-dress-pattern-pdf-pattern">Cielo top by Closet Case Patterns</a>. Somehow the dress version took precedence in my mind, and I had forgotten there was also a shirt version. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DKM0Y32jTDk/XjyJjDvhJXI/AAAAAAAAHYs/_y3pscFC8n8uuKy7lUdaFEj0etlODUFuwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_7364.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="933" data-original-width="1200" height="496" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DKM0Y32jTDk/XjyJjDvhJXI/AAAAAAAAHYs/_y3pscFC8n8uuKy7lUdaFEj0etlODUFuwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_7364.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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There was one small catch... I really wanted a long sleeve top. While the fancy "statement" sleeve on the Cielo is lovely, I really was looking for a more basic sleeve. So I lengthened the short sleeve into a long sleeve using a <a href="https://grainlinestudio.com/blogs/pattern-tutorials/pattern-tutorial-long-sleeved-scout-variation">tutorial from Grainline</a> on lengthening the sleeve of the scout tee.</div>
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This is what my sleeve pattern looked like. I took my best guess at a 3/4 sleeve legnth by measuring my arm, and drafted a wide hem or cut-on cuff, depending how I folded it. </div>
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The first one I made was the burgandy top, which sewn from a light weight wool-cotton blend fabric I found at <a href="https://www.facebook.com/homespunithaca/">Homespun Trumansburg</a>, my favorite local fabric shop. I just love the soft wooliness of it, it is so light and warm.<br />
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I added about 4 inches to the longest shirt length on the pattern, then made a deep hem (1.5 -2 inches?). For me, this make sit long enough that I can wear it out or tuck it in to a mid-high waisted pant.<br />
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I made the 14 shoulders, then graded out to the largest hip size, which is a size larger than my measurements... I wanted it to have a little extra ease around the belly and hips. <br />
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The pants in these pics are white bull-denim Ginger jeans that are my favorite jeans right now.<br />
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The second is made from Atelier Brunette viscose crepe in Chestnut from <a href="http://imaginegnats.com/">Imaginegnats</a>. I got the end of this roll, sorry! This fabric feels like a substantial silk crepe, but without the static. The drape is divine!<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gHUYNvwhFls/XjyJKtO6zDI/AAAAAAAAHYg/b9CJDbXok_49mQaZ6RY8rmeP6yaC5L2RgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_7388.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="852" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gHUYNvwhFls/XjyJKtO6zDI/AAAAAAAAHYg/b9CJDbXok_49mQaZ6RY8rmeP6yaC5L2RgCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_7388.jpg" width="454" /></a></div>
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The pants are black linen <a href="http://annaallenclothing.com/persephone-pants">Persephone pants (by Anna Allen)</a>. I made these over a year ago, but they are just now becoming one of my favorites. I made them from a non-stretch linen, but I find that they stretch out considerably over the course of a day, and by the end of the day they'd be down on my hips.<br />
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I recently solved this by adding buttonhole elastic to the back waistband. When they start to fall down halfway through the day, I can tighten in the elastic and then they stay up where they're supposed to. Now they are a go-to pant for me, and I want to make more!<br />
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The width of the neckline on the Cielo tends to show my bra straps, since I tend to wear cross back bras. I think that to narrow the neckline I'd have to add a closure, and I'm not sure I'm into that right now.<br />
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And finally, plaid. I haven't been a plaid person... but now I sort of can't get enough. I saw this fabric at Homespun when I bought the burgandy wool, and I couldn't stop thinking about it, so I went back for it.</div>
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I don't usually pick cottons, but this one is so soft, almost brushed like a very lightweight flannel.<br />
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The shoulder yokes on the back are cut on the bias, for fun and to avoid matching!<br />
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These tees have added some new life to my wardrobe, they are great under blazers and cardigans that I haven't worn for years. They've been the perfect project for a quick and satisfying sew in between the demands of work and home life.<br />
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<br />dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-39236819826321429002020-01-15T20:55:00.000-05:002020-01-15T20:55:34.704-05:00Striped Jenny Overalls<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
My favorite, favorite <a href="http://unlikelynest.blogspot.com/search?q=jenny+overalls">black linen Jenny Overalls</a> are in the mending pile... they are worn paper thin in some crucial areas, so they're candidates to try out <a href="https://closetcasepatterns.com/repairing-jeans-with-invisible-mending/">invisible mending</a>. I love these so much nothing can replace them. But in the meantime a girl needs some overalls...</div>
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I bought this striped stretch linen from <a href="http://emmaonesock.com/">Emmaonesock</a> thinking I'd make pants. When I got it, it was not nearly as stretchy as I thought it would be, and I failed to commit on a pants pattern. The thought crossed my mind: "What lovely overalls this fabric would make." And the fact is, overalls don't take much more fabric than pants...<br />
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And then there are always overalls with removable bibs...!<br />
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So I don't have a lot more to say about making the Jenny Overalls. They are great. I make them with the grading between sizes established in <a href="http://unlikelynest.blogspot.com/search?q=jenny+overalls">my black linen overalls</a> and the <a href="http://unlikelynest.blogspot.com/2018/11/frida-alls-frida-kahlo-overalls-with.html">Frida Overalls</a>, and vary the width of the side seam based on how I'm feeling about fit (the pattern has a generous 1 inch side seam). These also have a double side button fly that you can see in <a href="https://closetcasepatterns.com/adding-hip-buttons-jenny-overalls-trousers/">this tutorial</a>.<br />
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Lots of pictures and not a lot of text follow.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N-Yiyib3pWE/Xh-6YmvR6uI/AAAAAAAAHWo/_YPTIDaWfWkAb4FA6s-NzgUlCfr0A-FiwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_0235.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1200" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N-Yiyib3pWE/Xh-6YmvR6uI/AAAAAAAAHWo/_YPTIDaWfWkAb4FA6s-NzgUlCfr0A-FiwCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_0235.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outside of bib and inside of pants, showing the buttons for attaching to the waistband, and the buttonholes through the inside of the waistband. The very last hole on each side is attached to the jeans button on the double button side button fly.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">I drafted a front pocket stay for this version, since my fabric had stretch and wasn't quite as heavy as one could hope. I sort of love it! French seamed in the manner learned from Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Machine blind stiched hem. I guess this photo would be better rotated 180 degrees, sorry.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Button side fly. Buttons are from Amazon, a set that included 6 different kinds. I was loving these nautical themed ones for this project.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front bib and pants front seen from the front side. The bib is cut on the bias.</td></tr>
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<span style="text-align: center;">Straps are faced with white linen. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZDeeXxGFsVk/Xh-6aRdPSgI/AAAAAAAAHW0/F4ovTlg9ZScW_00Ghzba-TdVA8fcRQsawCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_0246.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="605" data-original-width="1200" height="322" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZDeeXxGFsVk/Xh-6aRdPSgI/AAAAAAAAHW0/F4ovTlg9ZScW_00Ghzba-TdVA8fcRQsawCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_0246.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back view... front side of straps and back side of waistband. </td></tr>
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<span style="text-align: center;">I forgot to mirror the angle on the back of the straps... doh! But one really can't tell when wearing, so sorry not sorry, and not fixing it! The horizontal buttonholes are for the straps. The vertical buttonholes and buttons on the waistband are for buttonhole elastic that has yet to be installed. Long story short, I've been inspired by my 7 year old's little girl jeans to try buttonhole elastic so that I can adjust the fit based on how I'm feeling, day to day, hour to hour. Anyhow I'll write a post on that if it ends up working.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K0Ssctwneg0/Xh-6arhvmEI/AAAAAAAAHW4/oPdQ6TKjfYcS2OtXD4f3zX8mRho3S4p1QCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_0247.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="522" data-original-width="1200" height="278" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K0Ssctwneg0/Xh-6arhvmEI/AAAAAAAAHW4/oPdQ6TKjfYcS2OtXD4f3zX8mRho3S4p1QCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_0247.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside of straps and waistband. </td></tr>
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I just LOVE these. Not quite as versatile as my black linen ones, but very striking.<br />
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Worn here with a white Liesl Classic Shirt.<br />
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More overalls in the making...dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-6924848460891522012020-01-14T11:35:00.000-05:002020-01-14T11:35:02.727-05:00Forest Green Twill Sienna Maker Jacket by Closet Case Patterns<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I have a new favorite wardrobe item... please welcome my Sienna Maker Jacket.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EuqKB93LKHI/XhzzUJtU2VI/AAAAAAAAHT0/7iOT2F0LT-w34kTRi6dK70HK90LF_DOpACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_0175.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1053" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EuqKB93LKHI/XhzzUJtU2VI/AAAAAAAAHT0/7iOT2F0LT-w34kTRi6dK70HK90LF_DOpACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_0175.jpg" width="560" /></a></div>
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This is yet another instance of Closet Case Patterns releasing a pattern for an item I had never even considered owning, but after making it, I don't know how I lived without it. I've worn it every day since finishing it.<br />
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While all of the samples were amazing and envy-worthy, as usual, the one that really struck me was <a href="https://handmadebycarolyn.com.au/2019/10/sienna-maker-jacket.html">Carolyn's</a>. Not only did her version make forest green seem the most lovely shade in the world, but it also reminded me of a piece of orphaned fabric I had in my stash.<br />
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Orphaned, you ask? You see, I bought this stretch twill with every intention of making pants. It wasn't even an online purchase, it was bought locally, and I was convinced while in the store that it would all work out well. The first problem was the color-- it was an odd shade of medium green, and I had in mind a pair of black pants. So I purchased a couple of packs of Dylan black dye and threw the whole mess in the washer. This did not work out as planned... instead of black I got this dark green, which isn't bad at all, but if one was expecting black, it is rather disappointing. I have since read up about dying things black, and apparently it can be quite tricky to get a true black, especially with a cheap packaged dye. Dark green might not have been a deal breaker, except for the fact that when washed, the twill ended up weighty and without the kind of recovery one hopes for in stretchy pants. I worried that for the pattern I had in mind, they would just bag out and be saggy. That was a couple years ago, and it has sat in the stash ever since, causing me a bit of consternation every time I looked at it and wondered what in the world I would do with it.<br />
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Then came Carolyn's Sienna, and I knew just what I had to do.<br />
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Out came the dark green twill, and I laid it out with concern... could I fit the pattern pieces on my 2.25 yards? I had my heart set on the mid-length, with sleeve pockets and the very cool wrap tie-belt, which calls for 3.25 yards, not including the sleeve pockets. While all logic and the pattern envelope asserted that this would not be possible my pattern layout intuition thought it might be possible... and it somehow was. I didn't measure, but it must have been an especially wide fabric. The facings were cut from a piece of scrap linen, and the belt was pieced together. It is a touch shorter than the pattern called for, but I'm only 5'4" so this worked out fine. After cutting, I only had a handful of tiny scraps left.<br />
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Concerning sizing, I merely graded between sizes based on my measurements. If memory serves, I decided on a 14 shoulder, 18 waist, and 16 hip, and 16 arms. I made no muslin. With the intended fit being fairly loose, I figured that precise fitting would not be necessary.<br />
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For a relaxed fit jacket, the fit is perfection!</div>
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The directions were superb as usual. I followed them step by step just because it was fun.<br />
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Since the coat is unlined, clean seam finishes are called for. Having <a href="http://unlikelynest.blogspot.com/2017/12/towards-truly-showerproof-trench.html">previously sewed a rain coat</a> using <a href="http://www.menwhosew.com/how-to-sew-a-true-professional-flat-felled-seam/">true flat-felled seams</a> for strength and waterproof-ness, I would call their version of a flat felled seam a "faux flat felled seam." And their faux flat-felled seam, where one serges and stitches down the seams, might be a faux-faux flat felled seam? However, in this case, since all was needed was a nice seam finish, I used what I would call a faux flat fell, where one trims one seam allowance and wraps the other seam allowance over it and stitches it down. There were a couple of exceptions... for the second sleeve seam I used a french seam, which is easier to do on a closed tube. And I serged the armhole seams, since I was feeling too lazy to fuss with binding or flat felling on the curve. Carolyn serged hers so I felt in good company.<br />
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The facing edges are bias bound with bias made from my striped linen. The way the inside pocket is stitched down under the facing is an unusual detail, but it works!</div>
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Stretch is not suggested for this pattern, and this twill is very stretchy. To balance this, I interfaced pockets edges with strips of interfacing, and I also was very careful not to stretch when sewing. There was sometimes a bit of a wave after sewing a seam which was fixed with a bit of steam from the iron.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanging look loop interferes with my personal brand tag... didn't notice this until I took pictures. Might have to move that tag down. </td></tr>
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<br />I had a bit of fun with hardware. The rectangular rings I found at Joannes, I wish they had an antique brass finish but since I didn't think ahead, I had to take what I could get. The antique snaps I had in stash from a previous project. I accidentally added the snap to the wrong side of the collar, so I had to add another to the correct side. The rivets were from a leather project and were too long for riveting fabric, but after snipping the ends they were perfect.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sleeve pocket detail.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not perfect. Not apologizing.</td></tr>
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I haven't yet figured out what to do with sleeve pockets, but I'm enjoying the detail anyway. They strike me as a good way for someone to sneak up behind you and play a little prank... but anyway.</div>
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The patch pockets in the front are HUGE. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Facing on the front patch pocket. The pattern has cut-on facings, I drafted this facing on the fly due to lack of fabric. </td></tr>
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As I said, it's been hard to take it off since finishing it. It is also very satisfying to have made it from a piece of stash fabric that had been a disappointment for its original purpose, but is very satisfactory for this jacket. I actually sort of hope the cheap dye I used will continue to wash out and add to the aged look. </div>
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I'm already dreaming up other versions. The collar has definite trench-coat vibes, maybe a long wool version with a shoulder flap and back vent? Or a short (view C) version with repurposed denim....</div>
dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-91662868559592561602019-12-30T22:43:00.002-05:002019-12-30T22:43:54.760-05:00Red Linen Wiksten Haori (formerly Wiksten Kimono)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I made a <a href="https://shopwiksten.com/products/womens-haori-sewing-pattern">Wiksten Haori </a>in red linen, and it has been the hot item this holiday!</div>
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This pattern is simple, but a lovely shape that works for many people. I made this one with no lining in a heavy red linen from my stash, a piece that I've had for many years. It has proven to be a bit too heavy for a dress, but was perfect for this pattern. It is wonderfully smooth and drapey with an attractive rustic weave.<br />
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I made it without a lining, instead I faux flat felled all of the seams, except the arm seams which were difficult to flat fell, so I french seamed them. I made a facing for the sleeves so that I could turn them up without the seams showing. I used my custom pockets, which are a curved slant that goes from the collar to the side seam in one clean sweep.<br />
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This was all made in a huge rush in time for a Fiddle Orchestra concert where we were instructed to wear red. Previously the only thing red in my wardrobe was underwear ;).<br />
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I love the way this turned out, and it has proven to be a wonderful item to have in my wardrobe for the holidays-- just throw it on over any other item and one can instantly assume that I have a healthy holiday spirit.<br />
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More photos...<br />
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Happy New Year!dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-39436455763588255392019-12-22T11:41:00.000-05:002019-12-22T11:41:21.573-05:00Red Ombre Plaid Tessuti Oslo CoatI've made a new coat!<br />
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And it is a cozy, wooly, wintery coat!<br />
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It's been awhile since I've made a coat. Last year I was crushing on all of the amazing versions of the <a href="https://papercutpatterns.com/products/sapporo-coat">Papercut Sapporo</a> coat on instagram, and I bought a piece of wool to make it. Online purchase, and it was a lovely gray coating, but it was drapy-er than I thought would be ideal for the Sapporo coat. I was also having second thoughts on the Sapporo because it really isn't such a practical coat for truly cold climates since it has no front closure and cropped sleeves, so what I would be making would be a late fall-early spring coat, and the wardrobe gap I was filling was for a truly warm coat. I was also noticing how many of the Sapporo coats that I admired required quite a bit of finagling of the pattern, and then t<a href="https://www.sewinglikemad.com/2019/11/the-sapporo-coat-by-papercut-patterns.html">his review</a> came out.<br />
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I still think I'll still sew the Sapporo coat sometime in the near future since it is such a unique pattern and I'm but for my winter coat needs, I went looking for another pattern. I was looking for something classic and a bit boxy, and decided on the Oslo coat by Tessuti. There are some incredible versions of this one out in the blogosphere by some of my favorite bloggers, including amazing versions by <a href="http://chainstitcher.blogspot.com/2017/11/charcoal-cashmere-blend-oslo-coat.html">Diary of a Chainstitcher,</a> <a href="https://fiftytwofancies.wordpress.com/2017/08/28/oslo-coat/">Fifty two Fancies</a>, <a href="http://jasikanicole.com/oslo-coat-phillipa-pants-no-frills-sweater/">Jasika Nicole</a>, and of course the amazing <a href="https://closetcasepatterns.com/a-coat-for-the-ages-my-pendleton-wool-oslo-coat/">Heather of Closet Case</a> files.<br />
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The plan was coming together for some cozy holiday sewing over the Thanksgiving break. However, when I pulled out my stashed gray coating, it didn't seem right for this project either. So I make a trip to my favorite local fabric shop, <a href="https://www.facebook.com/homespunithaca/">Homespun</a>, and this ombre plaid coating was love at first sight. It was a pretty heavy wool, so I thought it would work well to make a structured, super-warm coat. I also picked up a lining that was an interesting fabric, smooth rayon sort of like a bemberg on one side and cotton on the other.<br />
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I took a cue from Heather and went up a size because I was planning on some serious underlining and interlining and I wanted room to be able to wear a thick sweater or down liner, and I increased the seam allowances to 1-inch on the side seams and sleeves to allow on-the-fly fitting. I ended up using some of that extra seam allowance to add some width to the upper sleeve because I felt that my very significant biceps needed a bit more ease for layering.<br />
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I bought about 1/2 a yard extra for plaid matching, but perhaps I should have bought more, especially after adding extra to the seam allowances. I just barely managed to cut it all out, and I ended up having to piece together one of the facings. However, in the end I am very happy with my plaid matching, it is so satisfying!<br />
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The one major change that I made was to raise the pockets a whole 6 inches. Every review I've read of this coat talks about how low the pockets are. I determined the pocket height by draping the pinned together coat pieces around me and imagining a good pocket location. The pockets are truly humongous, and this is a feature I love in the finished coat after raising them to a point where I can easily touch the bottom of the pocket when wearing the coat. There has been many a coat and dress where I've placed the pocket too low and not being able to touch the bottom of your pockets is seriously annoying!<br />
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One of the goals for this coat was to make a TRULY WARM winter coat. I happened to be reading <a href="http://blog.fehrtrade.com/gallery/6392/a-reflective-wool-jacket/">this post</a> by Fehr trade while making the coat, which really nailed home the wind-blocking properties of flannel interlining, so I fully interlined the sleeves and upper body with flannel that I had in my stash. I really loved Jasika Nicole's idea of a quilted lining, so I borrowed her idea. I used <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Quilters-Dream-Wool-Batting-Crib/dp/B00KCQXQYO/ref=sr_1_3?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIg8jwtcbJ5gIVmZOzCh2d2Q3dEAAYASAAEgKsdvD_BwE&hvadid=174253649932&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9005807&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=17484491408224198470&hvtargid=kwd-4996882877&hydadcr=24657_9648987&keywords=dream+wool+batting&qid=1577027820&sr=8-3">Dream Wool</a> and the crib size was just enough for my coat.<br />
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I added hanging chain, and one of my dwindling supply of tags.<br />
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I was almost too lazy, but at the last minute I found the energy to add an interior zipper pocket. I made it HUGE, it can easily swallow my big credit card wallet.<br />
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Generally the directions were quite good. However I had a small beef with the understitching instructions for the collar. Shouldn't one switch the side of the understitching at the break, the point at which the collar turns? Otherwise the seam would show on either the collar or the bottom of the coat. I followed the directions blindly at first, but it bothered me so much that I unpicked my understitching and redid it, clipping the seam at the break and switching the understitching. </div>
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This wool required serious use of steam and a clapper. The clapper wasn't on hand for the final press for these photos, and I ended up using a handy block of wood which worked just about as well as my fancy clapper.<br />
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I didn't add the buttonhole until just before I sewed in the lining, so that I could customize the location. It was a bit of a pain making a bound buttonhole with the coat already sewn, but not impossible, and it beats having the buttonhole in the wrong location. The button is an interesting dark green button from my friend Susie's grandmother's collection.<br />
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I was lazy and did not add the interior button. In some photos the coat does not lay as well as it could... not sure if I'm motivated to go back and add it though.<br />
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Towards the end of the project I was just going on autopilot, so I finished that tricky area where the bottom of the front facing meets the lining with a bit of hand sewing like I usually do. However in retrospect it looks like they had an interesting method for getting a nice finish, so I wish I had paid more attention to the directions.<br />
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I love the notch where there collar meets the shoulder, it adds a subtle detail to an otherwise simple design.<br />
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So, after finishing it up, I have to say... this coat is heavy! And sort of huge. However, it is toasty warm. It isn't the coat I reach for every day, but on cold days it is the coat I reach for when I know I'll be standing around it in. It is the perfect coat for keeping my daughter company on dark cold mornings as she waits for her school bus. It's definitely the coat I reach for on below-freezing snowy mornings when I know I have to be at work despite the conditions. However I wore it on a day I was out Christmas shopping and I was sweating in the stores!<br />
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A few more photos...<br />
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So the one thing I've thought about is adding an inner cuff to the sleeve. I probably should have tapered the sleeve a bit more, because as it is it lets in a bit of a draft.<br />
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I would love to make this pattern again in the future, perhaps with a lighter, drapier wool, not sizing up, which I think would make a very classy, versatile coat.<br />
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Have you made a warm coat? How did you add warmth to your coat?dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6870479718005668005.post-63382641135438214582019-11-26T09:31:00.000-05:002019-11-26T09:31:44.541-05:00Blue striped linen swing-y shirt dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I just can't get enough of shirt dresses this fall. They are all variations based on the Kalle Shirt Dress pattern. </div>
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The inspiration for this one was the Ace and Jig.</div>
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I would LOOOVE to get some gorgeous hand-loomed textiles like the ones Ace and Jig are famous for... but the best I could come up with was this lovely stripe from Fabrics-store.com. It is a soft, smooth yarn-dye linen, and the stripes are actually blue and black but the overall effect is a wide stripe. </div>
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One of the things I love about the inspiration dress is how full and swing-y it is. I started with the Kalle shirt dress pattern, but I made quite a few changes. </div>
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I added about 3 inches to each of the fronts to create pleats, and added an extra inch or so to the pleats in the back. I also added an inch or two to the back band, and extra to the side panels. I extended the back yoke 1.5 inches so that it would wrap around to the front, and removed a corresponding 1.5 inches from the front panels. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OyfCYnHS6jM/Xd0otnzA41I/AAAAAAAAHNg/AC8DBCjVKu8R1lGwa5rcw5LNKfzz1CoGwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_0148.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="779" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OyfCYnHS6jM/Xd0otnzA41I/AAAAAAAAHNg/AC8DBCjVKu8R1lGwa5rcw5LNKfzz1CoGwCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_0148.jpg" width="414" /></a></div>
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I decided to stick with the inspiration and use a non-kimono sleeve, so I pulled out my Liesl Classic Shirt and borrowed the armhole and sleeve. I took out all of the taper to the sleeve and made it 3/4 length, cut on the cross grain so that the stripe would be horizontal. I finished it with a wide hem. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ox-5_dnPqnU/Xd0opw3M58I/AAAAAAAAHNc/Rvn9AQDowU0npKUoJc-jradB1jNmk5gMQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_0116.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ox-5_dnPqnU/Xd0opw3M58I/AAAAAAAAHNc/Rvn9AQDowU0npKUoJc-jradB1jNmk5gMQCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_0116.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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To made the side panels made the front 3 inches narrower, and did the same to the back. I used those 6 inches to make the side panels, adding seam allowances and cutting on the cross grain. I made side seam pockets in the seam between the front panel and the side panel. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fSV1zaGcqZA/Xd0opjh7nuI/AAAAAAAAHNQ/F9_nx2x-WHQ9Fr7o0EE39FTMilciJAVTQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_0114.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fSV1zaGcqZA/Xd0opjh7nuI/AAAAAAAAHNQ/F9_nx2x-WHQ9Fr7o0EE39FTMilciJAVTQCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_0114.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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I made the Kalle hidden button placket. The inspiration has a popover placket, but I like the versatility of the full placket... maybe I'll wear it as a duster jacket sometimes. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v-Q2tBNJIUc/Xd0or9Co1QI/AAAAAAAAHNU/AQ_EK6bsOxolykNSagnBTk5UmKDZMWidACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_0131.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v-Q2tBNJIUc/Xd0or9Co1QI/AAAAAAAAHNU/AQ_EK6bsOxolykNSagnBTk5UmKDZMWidACEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_0131.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<br />The length of the dress was determined by the amount of fabric I had... with my 3 yards, this is the maximum length that I could manage. I went with a totally straight hem, finished with bias tape. The inspiration dress is longer, but I think this length will get more wear in my wardrobe. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lw-bBQDppBg/Xd0opIxixaI/AAAAAAAAHNQ/KuvrcmnbHy0ytEjSLEwAPMSZ-DZTS3MGwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_0102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lw-bBQDppBg/Xd0opIxixaI/AAAAAAAAHNQ/KuvrcmnbHy0ytEjSLEwAPMSZ-DZTS3MGwCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_0102.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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The inside is completely finished with french seams. </div>
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The "proper" way to make all of these changes to the pattern would be to trace them out and make new pattern pieces. However, lately I've taken to making changes right on the fabric while cutting, folding the pattern pieces or measuring and marking on the fabric with tailors' chalk. It is quicker and allows me to be spontaneous. </div>
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Of course sometimes I make mistakes, but most mistakes can be fixed with an extra seam or two. For example, I totally forgot I wanted to add a pleat to the front of the dress when I was cutting the front panels. So I cut the front panels vertically where I wanted the pleat to be, and added in a 3 inch strip of fabric. I french seamed both sides of the added strips. You can hardly tell the pleats are seamed in, stripes are so forgiving. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2MkwMBZ1LuM/Xd0orrr4nTI/AAAAAAAAHNY/__ckj_1TrHEiaMXvorkkwtMt-TMa6CmWgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_0130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2MkwMBZ1LuM/Xd0orrr4nTI/AAAAAAAAHNY/__ckj_1TrHEiaMXvorkkwtMt-TMa6CmWgCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_0130.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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With all this ease, I definitely needed a belt. I cut 3 inch wide bias strips from my scraps and seamed them together until I had enough for a belt. I folded the long bias strip the long way, wrong sides together, sewed a narrow seam, then turned the tube. I finished the ends by tucking them in and sewing, then tied a little knot just for fun. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--DpiPqfnHc0/Xd0opKySRII/AAAAAAAAHNg/FA2AiU88WHg_x31YtSxO2RMwWtn5hQISACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_0110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--DpiPqfnHc0/Xd0opKySRII/AAAAAAAAHNg/FA2AiU88WHg_x31YtSxO2RMwWtn5hQISACEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_0110.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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It is swishy and fun to wear! I think it will end up in high rotation for as long as my shirt-dress obsession continues. </div>
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dalachinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01310835887031308701noreply@blogger.com0