Thursday, March 31, 2016

Two more Ts: The Lane Raglan V2 by Hey June

Tees are such fun to sew... especially when you have a great pattern!

This is the Lane Raglan by Hey June patterns, which she recently updated. I actually hadn't gotten around to making any basic Ts before the update came out, so I can't give a side-by-side comparison. I did use the old Lane Raglan to make a sweatshirt, which I love, but that isn't really a good test since the fit of a sweatshirt is pretty fluid.

The new version comes with a Full Bust Adjusted (FBA) pattern piece, and since I'm a C cup, I used this. I cut a medium top and graded to a large at the hips. The fabric I used wasn't very stretchy-- the black version uses two remnants, the grayer black is a hemp jersey and the sleeves are cotton jersey, no spandex. The fit is pretty good with no adjustments. It is a little loose, but I'm fine with this in a casual T, but if I was using a stretchier spandex jersey I might size down one size.

I sewed it up with no pattern adjustments, but really didn't like the shaped front hem. The shaped back hem is great, but I thought the shaped front increased the illusion of belly roundness. I don't need any help in that department. I guess the shaped hem would be nice if you wear your Ts tucked, but I almost never do. So I pulled the hem, cut it straight across, and re-hemmed it with my twin needle.

The one other thing that I didn't like on my first version was how wide the neckline is. Most of my bras are racerback, and I don't like how wide necklines show my bra straps. So on my second version, I added 2 inches to the neckline on the shoulders, and one inch in the front and back. I adjusted the neck band to fit by using the measured length of the new neckline and subtracting 3 inches.

This gray leaf print jersey T shows those changes to the neckline, and I'm much happier with the fit. This version is sewn in a very lightweight, non-spandex jersey.

I definitely think I will get a lot of mileage out of this pattern. I'm loving the raglan sleeve right now, and there are lots of fun options to play with, including a hood and cuffs with thumbholes. I think this T would also look really snazzy in a rayon-spandex jersey, sized down one size.

I think I have my new favorite T pattern... what's yours?

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