Friday, February 1, 2019

Lander pants in Stretch Twill- True Bias Patterns

I finally made the Lander Pants. Why did I wait so long?

Actually, I can tell you exactly why I waited so long... it wasn't until recently that I started seeing these on people whose bodies who I perceive as having similar shaped bodies as mine. When some of my favorite bloggers started talking about these and making them in them in the higher end of the pattern range and they still looked great, I thought maybe it was time to give them a chance. I also got the pattern as part of a prize on Patternreview, so I no longer had any excuses!

I have to say, they fit me pretty well! I graded up one size in waist. The crotch curve is nearly perfect... I think I might have added just 1/4 inch to the length of the crotch in the back, and taken 1/4 inch out of each of the back darts.

I made these in a stretch woven, despite the fact that the pattern calls for non-stretch. The fabric is from Imagine Gnats, their J Crew Stretch Twill. To compensate, I sewed 5/8 seams (rather than the 1/2 it is designed for) and took in a bit more from the sides. In fact, I made a mistake with the final fitting and took out too much... then I ended up ripping seams to add it back in later.

To further help control the stretch, I added stays to the front of the pant, made out of a non-stretch cotton woven. I also interfaced all parts of the front crotch, and interfaced the waistband with my favorite weft interfacing that has a bit of stretch, but not too much. I also added an extra button to the button fly-- I'm not sure it is necessary, but some curvy-er women mentioned that there was a bit of gaping for them and I thought I'd play it safe.

I love these pants, they've been in heavy rotation since I made them earlier in the month. The stretch is perfect and comfortable, and mid-high rise feels very "now." And I love the giant pockets!

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