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Monday, September 24, 2018

Wiksten Kimono in doublecloth linen

I am in love with the Wiksten Kimono pattern. I can't stop dreaming them up. 

This one is in an incredible doublecloth linen from Fabrics-store.com. I've never even heard of a double cloth linen, but when I saw this one I knew it would be perfect for another kimono jacket. 


In this one, I sewed the Medium instead of the Small, thinking that it would be more of a layer to be worn over shirts, possibly even a light sweater. 


I was loving the feel of the collar on my last one, so I stuck with a weft interfacing rather than the medium weight interfacing that would be the rational choice. Since the layers were puffing out a bit, I decided to "quilt" them together with lines of parallel stitching. One of the Wiksten samples looks like it was done this way. 




ON this version I drafted yet another pocket. I decided I wanted a curved pocket that went from the collar to the sideseam. The top of the curve is finished with a facing, the bottom is serged, turned under, and stitched down. 



For the sleeve and bottom hems, I separated the layers of the doublecloth, turned each side in one inch, then topstitched the edge, creating a hem that looks the same on both sides. I could have used a similar technique for other seams, but I decided just to faux flat fell them, since this also looks lovely on both sides. 


And thus, it is reversible.


Wearing it here, I have the sleeve cuffs turned up for contrast. Both sides of the collar are the darker side of the fabric.



Now that the mornings are cooler, I reach for this all the time. It is just so soft and cozy. 

I have more kimonos planned. I think I need one in an Italian wool that I've been hoarding. Can one have too many kimono jackets? Am I going to tire of this silhouette and wonder how I ended up with so many kimono jackets?

In other concerns, does the untucked shirt tail look silly? My husband criticized me for the front tuck, but then said he had noticed that other women were wearing their shirts that way too. Traditional dressing would say your jacket should cover your shirt, but I break this rule all the time, do you?

6 comments:

  1. the kimono looks Great on you!
    & cozy...
    Love how you quilted the double linen, which I never heard of before...
    Chris

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  2. Thank you! The linen I used is https://fabrics-store.com/fabrics/linen-fabric-IL028-871-charcoal-natural-middle/. I had never heard of it before either, but it when it went on sale I was intrigued so I bought some and was pleasantly surprised!

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  3. much thanks for the Double layer linen link
    :-)

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  4. This looks wonderful. I made a tessuti Tokyo jacket in an almost identical double linen and agree it’s a beautiful fabric to wear. And I say wear your shirt tails as you wish! ;)

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  5. Love your Wiksten! As soon as this pattern was released I bought it. I've been thinking about it in linen but like you I might end up on a roll and make it in all the things! I too often ponder whether anything should be visible under my jacket. I default to no and then think I do need some longer outer garments but I don't like the look of a longish sweater on me so I end up with a jacket that I didn't particularly want to wear (sigh)It's just a quandary I never seem to resolve :)

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  6. Great Jacket! You wear it so well. I just ordered this pattern (yeah...I am late joining the Wiksten party). I so look forward to having my own collection of fabulous Wiksten kimonos! I plan to first start with a short version which I am sure to layer over longer shirts/tops! ;)

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